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  1. Rosanbo

    Rosanbo Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Pontypridd
    Drives:
    Corsa C Dualfuel
    Mine just broke today, looked under the bonnet, put it into 3rd gear and got home ok.
    But now I need a new one. The ball has popped out of a socket.
    Corsa C 2003

    1. Can the old one be bodged together with cable ties or whatever until I get a new one? Or is this just impossible.

    2. Vauxhall charge £132 for the part, Strange that vauxcentre.co.uk don't sell them.
    Anyone got anywhere cheaper? Local motorfactors?

    Is this about as good as it gets in terms of price? Unable to post links??? so copy and pasted this from Vauxhall Car Parts + £6.50 postage = £35.50 total

    Any advice in general about fitting? I already know how to do a gear allignment, with the 5mm drill bit.

    93183155N - VAUXHALL CORSA GEAR LINKAGE

    Part Number: 93183155N
    [​IMG]
    This is a new Vauxhall Part. VAUXHALL GEAR LINKAGE. Fits
    Vauxhall Corsa 2001 - 2006

    more...
    Price: £28.95 (Including VAT at 20%)
  2. WBC

    WBC Whatever!!!!!!

    Messages:
    6,509
    Likes Received:
    13
    Location:
    Yeehaah Towwn
    They do a repair kit for approx 40 iirc

    They meaning VX dealers
  3. Victorbox

    Victorbox Active Member

    Messages:
    853
    Likes Received:
    7
    Location:
    Bath
  4. Rosanbo

    Rosanbo Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Pontypridd
    Drives:
    Corsa C Dualfuel
    I might have been tempted by the GM Ebay one, but I can't afford to leave it another week before repair. I want to do it this weekend. Mine is an LPG corsa and I'm currently running a borrowed car on the expensive stuff, another week will cost me about £25 extra in fuel costs.

    Got about 5 local motor factor quotes with prices ranging from £61 down to £36 & £28 inc VAT. I'll be viewing the £36 one before setting off to buy the £28 one. Both are in stock, so will be buying on Sat morning. If they are identical, will obviously buy the cheapest, if the cheapest is less quality will maybe go back to buy the 2nd cheapest. Both shops are in my local area. Hopefully even though it's cheap it will last a long time and I won't ever have to do it again.

    I knew this day was coming and I knew I should have bought it a long time ago to change it before it broke or to have it ready for when it did break
    :unsure:

    Yes I did wonder if that meant.... as it implies, that it is genuine GM especially as it has a GM part number right above it.:(
  5. gerinemo

    gerinemo Active Member

    Messages:
    912
    Likes Received:
    33
    Location:
    Dublin Ireland
    Drives:
    2000 Astra G Comfort
    Rosanbo likes this.
  6. Rosanbo

    Rosanbo Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Pontypridd
    Drives:
    Corsa C Dualfuel
    Thanks, I might have a look at it tomorrow night then before buying the part on Saturday, just not looking forward to being under the car after work in the dark, and no doubt it will be raining!

    Then again, putting it up in the air Friday night will at least help save some time on Saturday
  7. gerinemo

    gerinemo Active Member

    Messages:
    912
    Likes Received:
    33
    Location:
    Dublin Ireland
    Drives:
    2000 Astra G Comfort
    If its just the plastic rod
    You dont even need to jack it up can just be done with bonnet open
  8. Rosanbo

    Rosanbo Member

    Messages:
    64
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Pontypridd
    Drives:
    Corsa C Dualfuel
    Mine was not the small plastic rod, it was the big arm underneath that, with the 2 large ball sockets on each end, both balls had come out of their sockets.

    So I bought a new assembly for £31 inc VAT (y) and I fitted it this weekend it is now done and works fine.

    I think I read certain threads around the internet that said this was easy to do, I beg to differ, on your driveway, this is pretty damn hard to do! And I consider myself to be very competent, maybe I'm just getting too old and fat to be underneath cars getting dust in my eyes! :(

    So here is a Corsa gear linkage replacement walkthrough

    You will need:
    A new linkage make sure there are 2 white plastic sleeves and a black plastic 'top hat' thing inside the bag.
    A T45 male socket bit
    Trolley jack
    Axle stands
    Pliers
    5mm drill bit and small rubber band or sellotape
    possibly 3 foot long stiff metal bar
    possibly 2 foot long 6 - 8mm diameter bar
    hammer
    The agility of a mountain goat
    Double jointed elbows and wrists
    Kevlar protective armbands for your forearms.
    Fingers and neck muscles made of steel and without arthritis.
    Someone to help you.

    Slacken Passenger side front wheel road bolts, release handbrake, gear stick into neutral, jack up front of car with a trolley jack... Under the front bumper skirt you will find the subframe, jack it directly under the numberplate, jack to full trolley height, put 2 axle stands under the car just behind the 2 front wheels again supporting the subframe. Release trolley jack a tiny bit so the load is spread between the 3 supporting points.

    Under the car, at the front of the exhaust heat sheilding, you will see the gear shaft and a clamp bolt with a T45 star head, undo this bolt, all the way out if you like, but loose is good enough. Now you have to pull the gear shaft out of the clamp, push the gear shaft backward out of the way when it comes out.

    I unplugged the lamda sensor from it's plug and just moved the wire out of the way to give me more room. This was difficult to do - you have to use a flat screw driver and lever the clip outwards away from the plug and pull the plug off at the same time.. You could easily ignore this and only do it if you need to.

    You will see the swivelling pivoting link thingy (of which you have bought a new one) is sitting on top of a fairly large metal braket, and it is held on to that bracket by a black plastic cap that looks like a top hat. You have 2 options A or B

    A) You try to remove the top hat in situ under the car, (I tried using a long screwdriver and a hammer but it didn't budge a millimetre. So I resigned myself to option B (below), which turned out to be the best option afterall IMHO) and then slide the assembly away leaving the big bracket it sits on in situ.

    B) You remove the whole assembly on the big bracket in one piece.........You see the big bracket is held in place by a large black rubber bung or bush if you like and this has, at the bottom edge, nearest your face, a flat metal spring clip with a nipple in the centre, use a pair of pliers or if you're really strong your fingers, to pull the clip down away from the nipple and at the same time outwards to the side, once it moved off the nipple you can do the rest with your fingers. Push the central metal thing with the nipple on it, upwards and out at the top so it is free.
    Remove passenger front roadwheel. You will see the other end of the big bracket here with the same clip and nipple, remove and push out in exactly the same way.

    Now there is one final step, You're nearly there!

    I will mention here that mine is a dualfuel (LPG from new) and behind the brake cylinder -under the coolant bottle- on mine is a huge LPG reducer which stops you from getting any hand or tool access from the top of the engine compartment down to the gearbox gear selector -universal joint- (this is the name of the final peice that needs to be removed). So on your car you might be able to get access from the top, and do the following bit differently, but this is how I did it.

    Through the wheelarch reach around to the universal joint you should be able to feel a pin which sticks out the bottom (the side nearest you) and you will feel on the other side of the universal joint, the top-end of that pin. The pin needs to come out, that is to say the bottom needs to go in, and the top end pulled up away from the joint. At the bottom end you should feel a spring clip which you can press in with your finger tips. You need to press it in and push the bottom of the pin upwards into the hole.

    However, life is not as easy as that, because you will not have any strength to push it up whilst also squeezing the clip in. So I got a 3 foot long bar of metal it happened to be about 15mm wide and 3mm thick, and at one end I filed it to create a blade on the end like a screwdriver blade. I fed this bar down from the front of the engine through the network of pipes and wire harnesses until it came to the top of the pin. The top of the pin has a recess underneath all around it so you can put this blade into the recess, and then twist it anti clockwise so that force is applied to push the pin upwards. However, you need a second/helping pair of hands to do the twisting while you are in the wheel arch pressing in the spring clip on the bottom of the pin - IT WORKS. Once the pin has moved up inside the hole you can reach around and pull it completely out from underneath the car or maybe from the wheel arch or maybe from above the engine compartment (but not if it is LPG)

    Then the whole assembly can be removed, I took mine out through the wheel arch, but also possible from below.

    Use a small screwdriver to release each of the 4 clips in turn on the top hat and remove the top hat without breaking it. You can keep it for later, you never know when you might need a spare one, there should be a new one supplied with your new linkage.... One of the motorfactors I looked at didn't have one, probably because the bag had been opened! But had I bought it not knowing, I could have been :mad:

    Inside car, remove gear lever cover & push the gearlever to the locking position and lock with the drillbit with the rubberband to stop the bit falling straight through.

    Put the new part back, I put it back assembled on the bracket from below the car, but I left off the new top hat, you never know! Once that is fitted it's not coming off easily so leave it off until it's all done. Put the gear shaft into the clamp but don't tighten. Put the bracket 'legs" into thier holes and refit the rubber bungs but don't refit the clips...or put the clips half way on but not to the nipples. Put the new universal joint into the gear selector and try to line up the hole, - it is actually just possible to get a line of sight from the wheel arch to see that it is lined up. When it was lined up I put a 3 foot long brazing rod into the hole to try to keep it lined up. Grease the pin and refit the pin from whatever position you are able to. It probably wont go all the way in, they are a very tight fit. (((When I fitted my pin I was mindful to ensure the spring clip on the bottom was pointing to the rear of the car, I just think it will be easier to press it in -in that position- if it ever needs to come off again))) remove the brazing rod - if you used one.- you should now see the bottom of the pin from outside the wheel arch in the hole. I could not get my pin to go in any further so I got a 2ft rod of M8 screw thread and as the pin is hollow I reduced the diameter at the end so that it went inside the pin. From the wheel arch, I reached in and turned the joint so that the pin was almost vertical, then had someone else put the rod down inside the pin and tap gently with hammer, I could feel it as it went down and told them to stop when it was about 2mm to go and the springclip on the other side had popped out.

    Wiggle the gear selector assembly in neutral until a helper can depress the neutral button which can be seen by looking down behind the fuse box in the engine compartment. The button stays depressed. You now tighten the clamp bolt, not too much only a little tweak (spanner tight) and then 3/4 turn and that's it, no more, or you could cause damage. And you're done!

    Remove the drill bit -try selecting a few gears, it will be stiff at first, wiggle it until it becomes free -(the neutral button has just released itself)-, if all seems dandy, put on the top hat (the new one), and press the two bracket clips on fully -by hand- to engage the nipples. If removed, refit lamda sensor plug. Clean up & put wheel back on and go for a test drive. Have a well earned rest. (y)
    brikhead likes this.
  9. gerinemo

    gerinemo Active Member

    Messages:
    912
    Likes Received:
    33
    Location:
    Dublin Ireland
    Drives:
    2000 Astra G Comfort
    good to hear you got it sorted ;)
  10. Victorbox

    Victorbox Active Member

    Messages:
    853
    Likes Received:
    7
    Location:
    Bath
    The only comment I'd make is I don't think you should ever jack on the front of the subframe only on the correct jacking points where suspension joins the bulkhead or on the marked sill jacking points. I remember too many Cavaliers having their suspension dangerously damaged by incorrect jacking.
    Rosanbo likes this.

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