1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. It's been bought to our attention that certain users are spamming new and existing users with links to their own websites. This is not permitted on VxON.
    Should you receive such a message, please report this using the 'Report' link you will find at the bottom of the message.
    Those users will then be dealt with accordingly.
  3. Use The Search Function That's what It is There For!
    The chances are that the post you are about to make has already been asked so USE the search function first! You can either search JUST this forum by clicking on the search button on the top right (under the page numbers) or click on the main search button that is on the top tool bar.
    This will save you time and stop the same duplicate posts from appearing.

  1. Huggies

    Huggies Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Birmingham, UK
    Drives:
    Vectra C 1.9CDTi Hatch.
    Hi Oh Great and learned ones!

    I have Just bought a 1999 Corsa SXI 1.2 16V for my daughter which I know has some 'issues' but we got it really cheap and I was prepared to do some work on it...

    Query 1 - The coolant system has been filled with plain water - probably (I now realise) because of Query 2 below. So, as we are suddenly in the depths of winter (overnight) I started the process of adding antifreeze and found that on this engine the bottom hose goes to the top of the engine so the engine doesn't drain. Can anyone tell me if (and where) there is a drain point in the block? - there are several screwed in plugs in the head and block and I wasn't going to start blindly undoing them! Also, is there anything to watch out for when refilling the coolant (common airlock places etc)?

    Query 2 - I think the head gasket might be suspect as it is using coolant - not massively, about 1/2 litre every 75 miles but I haven't done all the other checks yet (plugs, oil condition etc) but there are some oil traces down the block - which was steam cleaned not too long ago

    Is it a nightmare job on these engines? (I have done head gaskets on 8V engines before) or should I 'hand it over and pay the price'?

    Cheers, Paul
  2. Ed2

    Ed2 Active Member

    Messages:
    492
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Wales
    we have a three cylinder.

    Challenge one is that unlike other simple 4 cylinder engine which are layers like a sandwich these have timming chain section with oil and water pump on the drivers side so it is like a side ways capital T. The skim lowers the head to the cylinders and then will not match the screw holes on the timming chain covers. I hear rumour that thicker gaskets are availble by aftermarket supplier.

    Next unusual bit is a tool set needs to be rigged up to do the timing chain, and i hear haynes tells you how to do this.

    The coolant travels though that join into the timing chain and has the painfully thin gasket and if that is not good seal, coolant drops into oil sump, - which could be what is happening if not head gasket.

    a bargain second hand engine can be an easier solution, as more traditional diy types can swap one quite easily.
  3. Trits

    Trits New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Stevenage, Hertfordshire
    I'm in the process of finishing a headgasket job on a 1999 16V 1.2 SXI. Finished the head gasket, but since the engine was run until it stalled, it needed new rings. Unfortunately I didn't find that out until I'd already completed the job !
    The new rings are in and its nearly finished now.

    I'd say if you're mechanically inclined you can do the job yourself, but it is a fair bit of work. Just remember to bolt the intake manifold to the head before bolting the head back in place, as there's a near impossible to reach bolt at the bottom of the intake manifold. Using a suitable levering tool (I used a small crowbar), tension the pulley tensioner (and lock in place with 4mm drill bit) before putting the water pump pulley back on, since its a bugger to tension with all the pulleys in place !
    As you already know, you'll just need all new head bolts (12), skimming, a crankpulley bolt (you'll need an E18 star socket) and a head gasket. Unless you decide to do the timing chain as well.
    If you decide to do it yourself, just don't wait until the engine overheats because then you'll have real problems.
  4. Huggies

    Huggies Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Birmingham, UK
    Drives:
    Vectra C 1.9CDTi Hatch.
    Thanks for the helpful hints guys!

    I have been keeping a careful eye on the temperature gauge and it never moves from the 90 mark. At the moment we don't go far in it as my daughter is learning to drive so I can afford to take it off the road for a while. I just don't fancy doing the job on the drive at this time of year!

    Is it worth changing the chain anyway while I'm there? and then the tensioner too? the car has done about 80k miles.

    Paul
  5. Trits

    Trits New Member

    Messages:
    6
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Stevenage, Hertfordshire
    Definitely do the timing chain & tensioner. They should be serviced every 100K, I picked up a kit from e-bay for £95 that included the lot.
  6. Huggies

    Huggies Member

    Messages:
    9
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Birmingham, UK
    Drives:
    Vectra C 1.9CDTi Hatch.
    I am beginning to think this might be the best option!

    I have done some pricing up this weekend and so far I've got:
    • Head Gasket set - £50
    • Head Bolts - £15
    • Cam Chain Kit - £85
    • Water Pump - £50
    OR...​
    • Second Hand Engine with Guarantee on ebay - £170!​
    I notice a few guys mention having the head skimmed, but I heard that Vauxhall don't condone this. Does anyone know why? (other than the obvious - trying to sell more cyl. heads!).

    Thanks again, Paul.​

Share This Page