Cutting out? read this!

[ChrisSRI]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris

[autoshine2005]

how do you do that last bit again the flame trap mod didnt quite understand it

[Kevin]

I have read the answer but missed the question. My problem is that my Vectra SRi cuts out for no reason when I slow up or stop at a junction. It seems worse after I have been driving then stoped and restarted. It does not happen every time but when it does it keeps doing it for abourt half an hour and is then fine again. Of course when it happens it means you lose power stearing so it could be dangerous The problem seems to be getting worse I used to have the same problem with my Cavalier Sri and never got to the cause. Please can you help Kevin

[StPaul]

I have read the answer but missed the question. My problem is that my Vectra SRi cuts out for no reason when I slow up or stop at a junction. It seems worse after I have been driving then stoped and restarted. It does not happen every time but when it does it keeps doing it for abourt half an hour and is then fine again. Of course when it happens it means you lose power stearing so it could be dangerous The problem seems to be getting worse I used to have the same problem with my Cavalier Sri and never got to the cause. Please can you help Kevin


I have the same prob, basicly you need to clean or replace the idle control valve (which i need to do myself soon).

[ChrisSRI]

no offence but this is why i didnt bother helpin out any more on this forum...

try reading the first post..jeees it aint hard

CLEANING OUT THE IDLE AIR VALVE WILL ONLY CURE FOR SHORT PERIOD....it is not curing the fault.....
THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDS CLEANING OUT....INPARTICULAR THE BLOCKED PIPEWAY IN THE THROTTLE BODY..

unblocking that pipeway will remove all cutting out, and the nice jerkyness that u get... be as smooth as after doin the above

the flametrap mod is a box you put on the front black breather pipe that you see on the front of the cam cover....you cut a bit out of the pipe...chuck the box in, jubilee clip on to each rubber pipe remaining. cleaning the rubber pipe out is a good idea..but no one will i suspect...this mod stops the hose gunking up and helps breathing

chris

[Ian]

Hey guys...

Chris is a really knowledgeable chap and ought to be listened to. This is good advice from an ex-Vx employee who has a fair bit of experience in the trade.

My Omega needs the same treatment, it's not as though it's hard to do!

Ian.

[Ian]

By the way Chris, welcome back... I'm listening at least. ;)

[StPaul]

CLEANING OUT THE IDLE AIR VALVE WILL ONLY CURE FOR SHORT PERIOD....it is not curing the fault.....
THE THROTTLE BODY NEEDS CLEANING OUT....INPARTICULAR THE BLOCKED PIPEWAY IN THE THROTTLE BODY..


soz bud, i did mean to put that bit in, i was just giving him the basics

[DigiGuru]

Is it possible for someone to get piccies for doing this lot?

I'll happily host the pictures... and if you get your own domain name, I'll give a free year's hosting to the person to gimme piccies :)

[Vinni]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same




Brill, I have this problem and was told about cleaning the idle air valve.. Thanks for the bit of insight into the problem.

[bt_cav]

Hi Folks, I have just joined this today. Lots of sound advice kicking about on here. I was wondering if the above cure for the idle problem applies to my L reg 1.8 as most of the idle problems refer to the ecotek cavs. Where is the idle control valve on little 8 vale and can it and the joining pipes and breather junction be cleaned out in the same way?

Chears Brian

[********]

hi, my 2.5 v6 has a similar problem, i have cleaned the EGR then replaced it, cleaned the throttle body then replaced it, cleaned the idle control valve then replaced it(cleaning did not cure the prob for any item). now it has a very uneven tickover but only sometimes and when it is doing it the m/hour reads 0.8. its been to vaux twice no answers.

please help AJS

[Chapperz]

Me got same problem too with idling, getting rather bad now as come down a hill the other morn on way back from work, and engine cut out on sharp right hander, not funny when tired and in narrow lane, nearly ended up with a hedge as a front spoiler!!!!!!!

[Colin1]

no offence but this is why i didnt bother helpin out any more on this forum...

try reading the first post..jeees it aint hard

I'm sure he is a 'very knowledgeable chap' but what this 'ex-Vx employee with a fair bit of experience in the trade' needs to realise is that alot of people on here aren't very knowledgeable chaps with a fair bit of experience in the trade - technical competence is always welcome but does he have to be so bloody patronising?
Lesson 1 in losing your audience - talk down to them...

[Chapperz]

Cheers Chris! Did mine yesterday and have never known the car so good! had to live with it for about 3 months as been told it was idle valve but too damn lazy to replace it, but cleaned out the little hole and hey presto! Drives like a 2.0i now and not a citroen dyane!!!!!! HA!!

[just_a_to_b]

Put car in garage twice to stop my Vectra cutting out. Still found myself careering into busy traffic islands with no pwer steering and indeed no power! Printed out your advice; handed it to the garage; problem solved. Thanks.

[Redtopcrazy]

That small breather always blocks chris and the breather from cam case to air hose on top of throttle body always kicks out oil mist. Best thing you can do is run em both to a charcoal canister with a vent to atmosphere. This also adds power too as incoming air temp is reduced.

[ISR]

Hi Folks, newbie to this site but I'm a Vectra X18XE owner so you folks might be the answer to my prayers! I have the usual idle control valve problem at idle and so need to sort that. I also get a serious misfire 8-10 mins after starting from cold every time, followed by EM light. The only code is (I think) idle control valve so could this be all one and the same? The fault happens virtually every time, but if I then switch off, coast and bump start again the EM light goes out and everything is fine for the rest of the journey (apart from idling). Any ideas anyone? Cheers.

[ODB_Muff]

i have a problem....EM light is on most of the time but occasionally goes out for a short time.....ive checked to see if there is power to the cam sensor...(no power)..can some one pls tell me if there should be power to it and if so,is there a fuse or something i could check...thanks in advance

[Byrongollings]

My Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 Lsi. L Reg engine keeps cutting out periodically when shutting down to change gear and sometimes when going along.
Could it be the oil plunger to the carb and where would I find this to top up the oil ?

[ChrisSRI]

I'm sure he is a 'very knowledgeable chap' but what this 'ex-Vx employee with a fair bit of experience in the trade' needs to realise is that alot of people on here aren't very knowledgeable chaps with a fair bit of experience in the trade - technical competence is always welcome but does he have to be so bloody patronising?
Lesson 1 in losing your audience - talk down to them...


this ex vauxhall chap isn't really bothered mate

i only ever re post here as i still get private messages askin for help.

when no one listens after you make the journey back here it
makes the visit back a bit pointless

regards chris

[Colin1]

1. this ex vauxhall chap doesnt really give a toss pal.

2. when no one listens after you make the journey back here it
makes the visit back..pointless
1. Fine, as long as we're clear on that - sod off then, take your bleeding heart somewhere else

2. all those mouse clicks - that's an epic journey mate; which makes me wonder why you bother

[Gav SRI]

1. Fine, as long as we're clear on that - sod off then, take your bleeding heart somewhere else

2. all those mouse clicks - that's an epic journey mate; which makes me wonder why you bother

Who exactly do you think you are, telling helpful people to sod off?

By pushing knowlegeable and helpful members away, you're not really helping the cavweb community are you?

Engage brain before letting your fingers loose on a keyboard perhaps?

[stuart30]

Before theres an all out war could some one who knows what there doing please take some pics...like an idiots guide,im sure theres peeps here would really be greatfull...i for one would.

Thanks in advance.........

[rayban]

hey chris (and the rest of you dudes who understand al this stuff)

jus wanna echo what stuart sed, any chance of sum pics? and also any chance of re-writing the origonal post in a way that even i can understand.

i read your instructions then bought a manual thinking id be able to figure it out by using both, but im still lost.

so help us out dudes

[Colin1]

1. Who exactly do you think you are, telling helpful people to sod off?
2. By pushing knowlegeable and helpful members away, you're not really helping the cavweb community are you?
3. Engage brain before letting your fingers loose on a keyboard perhaps?
1. None of your bloody business you nosy git
2. I don't recall anyone pushing him away, if he wants to play the prodigal son that's his business but if he feels he's not getting the adulation he clearly thinks he deserves then that's not a reason to give the 'cavweb community' a tongue-lashing
3. Fully engaged, as always. Try engaging yours and staying out of a dialogue that had nothing to bloody well do with you

Oh, and Chris, some cute editing to make it look politer, don't know who helped you with that as there's no traces of an edit but clearly a few points struck home - shame you can't edit my quote really, isn't it?

[ChrisSRI]

hey chris (and the rest of you dudes who understand al this stuff)

jus wanna echo what stuart sed, any chance of sum pics? and also any chance of re-writing the origonal post in a way that even i can understand.

i read your instructions then bought a manual thinking id be able to figure it out by using both, but im still lost.

so help us out dudes


yeah not a problem...gona be doin one soon on an omega and its the same so will try and do some pics etc to help.

p.s not after adulation...was written after i'd had loads and loads of p.m's from peeps askin for help and i'd written these types of threads or replies b4 but not "stickied" it...was prob written with a bit of "gawd almighty cmon..." as i was gerrin bored of doin it, date looked at the first post its ages and ages ago.....prob why it comes across as "look do this save a bomb and stop making the same mistakes", not meant as i think it has been taken...
if you look through some threads on cutting out...you will find the same things being done again and again and again, even tho lots of people who have found the actual cause that gives so much grief
i edited my post exactly as pointed out to make it look better as i thought it was for the best.

this stuff really aint helping anything at all i feel.

[Gav SRI]

1. None of your bloody business you nosy git
2. I don't recall anyone pushing him away, if he wants to play the prodigal son that's his business but if he feels he's not getting the adulation he clearly thinks he deserves then that's not a reason to give the 'cavweb community' a tongue-lashing
3. Fully engaged, as always. Try engaging yours and staying out of a dialogue that had nothing to bloody well do with you

Oh, and Chris, some cute editing to make it look politer, don't know who helped you with that as there's no traces of an edit but clearly a few points struck home - shame you can't edit my quote really, isn't it?

:shake another keyboard warrier here then....

...your brain is fully engaged is it, says alot if all you can come out with is abuse?!
Oh, and is that your dummy I can see on the floor next to your pram?

[rayban]

cheers chris, thanks for your perseverence (bit of adulation for you there :Cool2: )

i'll await your pics and in the meantime i am gonna be cursing the Mr Haynes for writing such a crap book that doesnt even label the picutres properly!

i mean it says (see illustration) and your left trying to figure out which bloody one!

anyway if your wondering, im looking at page 4A.12 of the Hanyes manual and i understand upto the bit where it says Rotate throttle housing and wack off the coolent hosses.

but im cunfused as to where to poke the paperclip you mentioned :crying_2:






oh and colin, chill out dude, get off your horse and help me out innit.

[Gav SRI]

If I remember correctly, the one that blocks and requires cleaning out with a paperclip - a paperclip being about the right size due to the size of the hole - is on the far right of the throttle body, as you look at it from the front of the car.

It is on the bottom, and is the smallest breather on it, it normally gets jamed up pretty good, but give it all a good clean as Chris has said and it'll be a different car to drive!

A good tip if your not too confident of taking everything off, is to take pics, and or label everything ;)

[MartinP]

My 2.5 V6 has suddenly developed a very "lumpy" idle when warm. Computer reads 0.3 litres/hour so nothing different there. The engine doesn't stall but it often feels as if it's going to, then picks up again. The whole car shakes but the tickover is mostly steady at 750 rpm. What's going on? No fault codes but the tech graph is all over the place as the computer fights to stabilise the idle speed.

This began after I had the autobox selector switch replaced. Methinks a man-made problem?

[Foot_Tapper]

Hi folks, just thought i'd add my experience with a cutting out problem on newly aquired 2.5 v6.
I would drive into a roundabout (not literally, for those pedantic gits), or turn a corner; and the steering would go heavy .
I thought what the f*ck, realised it had stalled completely, no power steering etc etc.
bloody dangerous.
I disconnected the airflow metre connection , gave it a wd40 blast, reconnected.
now as good as gold !!
havent tried doing the stated bits earlier in thread, but probably a good idea.

[Mr. 1576]

Hi guys, Ive registered here out of desperation so maybe someone can help.

My car is a V reg 1999 Vectra SXi 1.8 X/Z18XE and has the common stalling problem. However after reading so many posts relating to this problem Im getting confused as to whether my motor actually has the parts that as being mentioned LOL. Im not an auto mechanic :shame: but am willing to have a go. :p

Does my car have the idler valve or a stepper motor affair? All my cards on the table here, I just bought the Haynes manual and the pics are so poor that I cant make out a thing.

I have no lights staying on when the car stalls, and when plugged in for diagnostics, no codes are coming up at all.

Ive noticed that there are no pics here. It would be a tremendous help for people like me to actually see what we're looking for.

Can anyone help a noob please??

Thanks in advance.

Some straight info or even links which are relevant would be appreciated.

[jemimaj]

I have 1.8 vectra estate, and since I have had it have had the valves and pipes cleaned out as it was not idling correctly, and then this morning it refused to turn over and catch...ok so it was damp, but any suggestions as to what to do....once started it ticked over ok and was fine, it was just getting it started that was the problem!

[mrk]

at last some one with an answer to my juddering veccy i'll try and do this see wot happens

[cipher]

I'm sure he is a 'very knowledgeable chap' but what this 'ex-Vx employee with a fair bit of experience in the trade' needs to realise is that alot of people on here aren't very knowledgeable chaps with a fair bit of experience in the trade - technical competence is always welcome but does he have to be so bloody patronising?
Lesson 1 in losing your audience - talk down to them...

Some people are just never happy, I know that advice is the whole idea of this group, but a garage will charge you serious £££ vfor what you are capable of doing yourself at home.

If you can write your own name, and can hold a spanner, then you can clean the ICV/TB.

I'm not trying to be patronising, but I know when someone is trying to help me. I do not work as a mechanic, but have done in the past so things like this are not completley alien to me. Some of the things that car manufacturers have baffled me throughout the years, such as why did Ford use a Ballast resistor on the Sierra's ignition, and why did did Renault bolt a turbo to a pushrod engine on the R5GTT??.

Advice given here is obviously taken on a personal level, most of the techniques are tested and work, if anyone has any dounts about the advice given then they will be corrected by a reply in-thread.

It is, of course down to you if decide to listen to the community.

Some people, just dont want to be helped.:eh

[cipher]

1. None of your bloody business you nosy git
2. I don't recall anyone pushing him away, if he wants to play the prodigal son that's his business but if he feels he's not getting the adulation he clearly thinks he deserves then that's not a reason to give the 'cavweb community' a tongue-lashing
3. Fully engaged, as always. Try engaging yours and staying out of a dialogue that had nothing to bloody well do with you

Oh, and Chris, some cute editing to make it look politer, don't know who helped you with that as there's no traces of an edit but clearly a few points struck home - shame you can't edit my quote really, isn't it?

can we start a poll to get this guys IP barred?
:lmao: :bananasmi

[ChrisSRI]

thanks for the p.m

a year and a half this has been goin on.

no further comment guys..sorry..it would only fuel the fire.

[ChrisSRI]

in fact just re read through it all, kinda felt replying wasnt goin to help but i'll go with it...hey it can only get worse eh.

second post was a bit crappy..but was due to gettin the same thing asked again and again....was driving me nuts after a while

apologies if came over wrong...just frustration

i havent time to spend time on here anymore.
i was goin to do pics but i forgot, like a lot of other things
i even have throttle bodies spare etc, was going to do a new valve and a minty clean throttle body thing on p/x for old unit and save people lots or hassle but like i say i am just so busy nowadays.

regards chris

[cipher]

the P/X would be a good idea

[small print]

I've recently had the same problem as everybody else on here and it was easily remedied with the old paperclip. I own a v6 vectra sri and was experiencing the revs dying when the throttle was shut off or changing gear at low revs when the clutch was dipped so when i began to investigate i found that the breather from the throttle body was blocked also i found that the idiot who replaced the cylinder heads at the garage had not routed said breather pipe correctly and it had a nice hole melted through it where it had been sat on the EGR pipe that runs from the back of the EGR valve down the back of the block the other end of the breather was the problem where it ends just inside the last branch of the inlet manifold i found that this was where it had blocked and not the throttle body end of the pipe so i set about the spigot with the paper clip and the cleaned the throttle body out and replaced the breather pipe and now it's as good as new.:bananasmi

[DaveM]

Hi Guys, i've got a Vectra 1.8, 98 plate and mines is cutting out and then idleing at high revs when at standstill, fancy trying to clean out pipes before spending any money at Vox garage. But how easy is it and can a complete novice do it, or am i best doing wot other bloke did and print it and take to garage and ask them to do it, if i did this how much should they be charging me. Appreciate any help on this, cheers

[yetiman]

A big thanks to chris, my 98 astra (X18XE1 engine) was dying whenever it came to a standstill and generally running like crap. Performed this crafty little trick and now running as sweet as, only takes about an hour to do the whole job. Seriously you should have a go its only a matter of taking the air box pipe off the throttle body, unplug the multi connector from the throttle body, unplugging about five hoses (just mark them so you know where they go back) and detatchng the accelerator cable (1 little clip) undoing 4 bolts, take off the throttle body and give it a bloody good clean(you won't belive how much crap there is in there). Put it all back and hey presto, lovely running motor again and you'll feel like an engineering genius cos you fixed it yourself and it cost nowt!:Cool2:

[rgn69]

http: (http://82.34.50.33/sytemsandsoftwaredevelopment/systems/automotive/How_to/General/ecotecidlevalve.htm)//82.34.50.33/sytemsandsoftwaredevelopment/systems/automotive/How_to/General/ecotecidlevalve.htm (http://82.34.50.33/sytemsandsoftwaredevelopment/systems/automotive/How_to/General/ecotecidlevalve.htm)

[rgn69]

http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=24391

Check out this how 2 guide^

[davie22870]

Good pictures and guide rgn69. Is it the same for a 2.5cdx vectra as I have been having the same problems but not too confident on taking it to pieces?
Thanks,
Davie.

[tucker1972]

Will it work on a 98 2.0 DTI as well?

[Michael H]

Somewhat late in the day perhaps to help post 29, but the references in the Haines Manual to an illustration, is referenced by the section and para number.

e.g. In Ch3. Section 34 para 6 - It says "photo".
The photo will be labelled 34.6.

Hope that help someone.

[Michael H]

Thanks ChrisSRI, your a genius.

Replacing that fiddly clip on the throttle cable is a problem as it so easily flies off somewhere when you are trying to refit it.

Tip: thread a piece of cotton through the eyelet first, then if it flies off you can see where its gone.

If one is going to reuse the gaskets then it is best to replace them in exactly the same orientation as they were when they came off. Best to mark them first - otherwise examine the marks on them carefully to see which way round they were. Also when tightening down on them , do so evenly and gradually across diagonals. You do not want air leaks at the manifold joint.

[pjleicester]

try this link. it has pictures showing how to do the idle air control valve


http://forum.vectra-sport.com/showthread.php?t=25&p=

[Casius-J]

This topic deserved to get my first post.

Chris thank you very much for the suggestion, i printed ur post out and showed to my local garage, he knew of this problem and solution so go to work. Only costed me £20 and the car has been runnin beautifully ever since, no more cuttin out.

cheers for the advice!!!

p.s how rude of that poster that told chris to sod off after he gave some great advice.

[sgtgrash]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris

Hi Chris... I am new to this forum and i'd like to thank you for solving wot i thought woz gonna be an expensive trip to the garage :Cool2: And having read thru this thread it is apparent to me that a few peeps shud try reading the posts once in a while.:rolleyes:

Thanx again m8, pleez stick around so u can teach this old dog some new trix...:lmao:

p.s. For those that missed it, i've quoted Chris's good advice just for you...!!! :bananasmi

[Mat]

Any chance someone could add a few pics to this thread to make it easier for people to follow ?

[goonas]

Chris knows his stuff, but rarely pops back on here.. I will relay your thanks to him next time I see the ol' bugger online :D

[dave48]

Is it possible for someone to get piccies for doing this lot?

I'll happily host the pictures... and if you get your own domain name, I'll give a free year's hosting to the person to gimme piccies :)

Were there ever any pics available of Chris's procedure to remove the throttle body & does the procedure apply to a facelift 2.0 omega?

[Vic&Liz]

we have the same prob' & were sent here from vvoc forum. will be trying to sort the job tomorrow. this advice has been very helpful & luckily we have a lindsay porter manual which wazzes all over the haynes effort (which we also have) <lol>

:)

[Northern Geezer]

Hi there - New to the forum and can I just say that Colin1 seems abit out of order. This guys obv trying to help and its patronising people like this who stop valuable posters from visiting sites and posting this sort of decent information.

Chris, does this info apply to other models as well - Have a Vectra 2.2 and it seems a bit hesitant on acceleration (i thought it may be a fly by wire delay) but doesnt cut out.

Cheers
m8

PS great site everyone

[Vic&Liz]

will be trying to sort the job tomorrow

we did it. car is running fine now. we found printing these 2 picture guides helped...

http://82.34.50.33/sytemsandsoftwaredevelopment/systems/automotive/How_to/General/ecotecidlevalve.htm (http://82.34.50.33/sytemsandsoftwaredevelopment/systems/automotive/How_to/General/ecotecidlevalve.htm)

http://forum.vectra-sport.com/showthread.php?t=25&p= (http://forum.vectra-sport.com/showthread.php?t=25&p=)

our car is a 1996 1.8 16v LS

:)

[DaveTheViking]

if your looking to fit the flame trap it fits here.......

http://premium1.uploadit.org/DavesCavCDX//P1010004.JPG


basically its a box with wire mesh in it that will catch the crap forced up the breather, stopping it getting to the ICV in the first place.....

[Fosho]

Hi guys

I have a Cavalier 1995 1.8 LSi with similar problems as described here. The only thing is, the images given in the links given look very different to actual engine layout and the guide is a little bit more technical for me than I can understand. Could anyone kindly point out an easy guide for me? Cheers

[Fosho]

Just to add some info, idling is erratic at times especially when slowing down or stopping. Engine misfires sometimes when starting and acceleration is choppy. Sparks are blacked out and have changed them many times along with oil. Car has always been maintained.

[neil_m]

Hi all

I followed the instructions and successfully removed the Throttle body assembly etc. and thoroughly cleaned it. Took it for a test drive and it was great.

Got home, and noticed a problem!

There's a strong smell of hot / burning plastic from the engine bay. Further investigation and the only thing I can find is the inside of the Air intake Pipe where it mounts on top of the TB is slighly deformed / melted. Thankfully it was only a short trip. There was some wisps of smoke, mostly coming from somewhere under the air intake pipe between the TB and the airflow meter.

So I'm wondering if I've missed something, and need to bleed air out of the coolant in the throttle body? or have i missed something else.

Hoses reconnected:
TP sensor lead (electrical, rear of TB)
CAI valve lead (electrical, back of the CAI valve)

Breathers: Small breather line from left of TB to behind CAI valve
larger breather hose from right of TB (under coolant hoses) to top of rocker cover / cam cover.

Coolant: Top Coolant hose, goes away from TB towards air intake, dips down and into the belt end of the block
Bottom Coolant hose, heads away from TB, and down to the other end of the block.

I can't find an air bleed valve for the coolant system, I gather the coolant reserve is the highest point - so does this mean that if it's at the correct level, and I run the motor, the air should bleed out? Is there something I might have missed? I can't find any misrouted or burned cables / hoses.

[neil_m]

There was one or two other things to add; The coolant reservoir was not up to the fill level (should have checked this) and I probably lost a small amount of coolant whilst cleaning.

Also, there's some plastic clips from the Powersteering hoses to other hoses (to the right and behind the TB). I may have disturbed these when taking it out. Anyway, there's only one now, but there's a spot for two. Doesn't look like there was one there to be honest, but if there was, it's probably sitting on something hot where I can't see it!

[neil_m]

Sorry, I don't mean 'cai" (cold air intake :))I mean IAC: Idle Air Controller

[neil_m]

ah well, I think I've worked it out. Apparently Coolant stinks when it burns, especially if u spill a bit on your exhaust!!!

Obviously I'm no expert, but the expert I ended up calling for advice gave told me:Don't take off the throttle body unless you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. He's of the opinion that the whole job can be done without taking this off.

The Idle air controller can be carefully removed from the side of the Throttle body, and cleaned.
The breater hose at the rear of the throttle body can be taken off and cleaned.
The pipe for the rear breater can be cleaned with a toothpick if u reach around. The carby Cleaner should come with a little pipe which should allow you to clean it fully from outside.
The Butterfly can be cleaned from the top.
Taking off your Throttle Body risks ripping a gasket, putting air in your cooling system etc.

Everyones got their opinion, and I guess everyone may also be correct. Thanks to ChrisSRI for a procedure that got me where I needed to be. For the benefit of those in my particular position, I thought I would outline a simpler, possibly less risky procedure which is based on his, but could be tried first.

Here's what I'd rather have done. Maybe it won't take care of bigger problems that his method might, but it did a treat for me. You need
- a large Pliers
- a flat screwdriver
- a can of Carby cleaner with pipe attachment
- a few toothpicks
- a soft cloth.
- Set of Allen keys (not sure of the size for Idle Air Controller removal)

1: Remove large hose from Air intake over Throttle body (other end is into CAM cover) (squeeze clip). This hose brings waste gas back to be re-burned.

2: Remove section of Air intake pipe between Air flow meter and Throttle Body (hose clamps both ends)

3: Operate accelerator cable (in front of TB opening) to put butterfly on the perpendicular. Gently wedge this open.

4: Gently slide the small breater hose off the Throttle Body (toward driver seat) and same at other end. Check this for good airflow, a quick squirt of carby cleaner will show if it is blocked or dirty.

5: Using a toothpick, soften the dirt in the breather hose pipe at back of TB. The dirt is like tar in this pipe, and it takes the longest to clean of any part. If you can spray carby cleaner through from behind, you will see it run clear when clean.

6: Use a toothbrush to gently clean the butterfly valve and circumference of the throttle body. Spray with Carby cleaner to clean. (if the dirt goes in, it will burn and make smoke for a bit when u start the car next. A soft cloth with carby cleaner can take most dirt out first). Take care to clean edges of the circular part, and around hinges.

7: The Idle Air Controller is on the left of the TB. It attaches with a diamond shaped gasket, and has a motor attached to the end that faces you. You see two holes going into this inside the TB (above and below butterfly). The IAC is really just an autochoke, controlled by the computer, depending on temperature etc. it has a plunger which blocks or unblocks the butterfly bypass, basically reving the engine a little. All it needs to do is operate easily, and generally only matters when the engine is cold (unless it sticks). I believe you can do most of the cleaning from the TB opening without removing this. Spray through both holes with Carby cleaner liberally. It will run clear when clean. it's FAR easier to do this way, if effective.

8: (if you simply must remove the IAC, and maybe u don't)The allen nuts that retain the IAC are well titghtened. Be careful not to slip and thread them. When removing the IAC, be VERY careful not to damage the gasket, and note the orientation of the small corner of the gasket which sticks out (so you can put back same way). Clean and reattach IAC.

9: There's one, larger breather hose on the right. Didn't seem dirty on mine, but you might like to check. It's on the right side, slighlty below the bottom coolant hose. It snakes up under the throttle cable, to the cam cover, near the fat hose mentioned in 1. above. Slide off, squirt carby clean to check for dirt, and toothpick / carby clean the inlet.

10: Putting everything back together:
- unwedge throttle cable, ensure butterfly is working.
- If you were stubborn, and took your IAC off, you work out how to get it back on without damaging the gasket.
- Attach larger, right side breather hose
- Attach smaller breather (rear of TB to beside IAC)
- Reattach Largest Air intake (care not to force it too far down on TB)
- Last of all, put back the fat emissions hose from Cam Cover

You should be done. Hope I got this right, as there's no edit.

If you're not sure, take it to a mechanic, ask them to do it for you. There's risk, and there's $50 worth of worry. Having said that, I'd be happy to do mine again now, but YMMV.

[wazzab27]

hi im having similar probs with my vectra i had the head gasket replaced and the cam or crankshaft sensor done at the same time not sure which one if not both dodgy garage i now reckon since then the car stalls whenever i slow down or is idling em light coming on the same garage told me to put redex in with the petrol? could be a sticky valve anyway after many hours searching i found this site and changed the idle air controller valve but its still stalling im gutted can ayone shed any more ideas before i give up and take it to dealers
thanks

[Torquemada]

hi im having similar probs with my vectra i had the head gasket replaced and the cam or crankshaft sensor done at the same time not sure which one if not both dodgy garage i now reckon since then the car stalls whenever i slow down or is idling em light coming on the same garage told me to put redex in with the petrol? could be a sticky valve anyway after many hours searching i found this site and changed the idle air controller valve but its still stalling im gutted can ayone shed any more ideas before i give up and take it to dealers
thanks

Hi wazzab, be sure that you have done ALL the stuff mentioned in this thread before taking it in to Vaux, as they'll charge you the price of a secondhand Cav just to find out that they don't know they're 4rse from their elbow. ;)

The small pipes and drillings in your intake system can be gunged up and cause these sort of probs.

[wazzab27]

cheers thanks for that gonna have another play with it on saturday see if i can fix it

[Torquemada]

I'm not saying it's a guaranteed fix, but you need to eliminate all the possibilities. Before torturing yer wallet. ;)

[Torquemada]

Taking off your Throttle Body risks ripping a gasket, putting air in your cooling system etc.

That is absolutely true.
But then, if you are prepared to remove it, you will have bought a new gasket already. :up: Er, won't you?

Never re-use a gasket people, except in an emergency.

Or if you're broke. ;) ;)

[rupert]

Thanks, Neil M, for your helpful addition to this thread. Could you please clarify one thing for me? I think my '99 Veccy 1.8 has the engine with a non-removable icv (X18-XE1?). Are there any special considerations for this model, or will your procedure work as written?

Thanks again.

[Chris Palmer]

Thanks for all the info followed it to the letter car goes brilliantly now

[Chris Palmer]

Works brilliantly thanks for the info

[carz2006]

ive got the same problem but i have a 1.6 16v engine on a 96 p reg and its not as easy as discribed. the icv and throttle body is at the back of the engine and everything seems to be in the way. can anyone help? i took of inlet manifold and vaccumme pipe and wedged open butterfly and sprayed with carb cleaner and cleaned as much as i could with toothbrush. is there anything else i could do?or is there and easier way and better?
pls help

[dandy]

Hi Chris ,could you please tell me how i can cure the problem with my car as it cut out intermitantly when idling thanks Dandyuote=ChrisSRI]i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris[/quote]

[jd_iolfree]

Followed ur advice to the letter and all is well now.

It is much easier to clean throttle body if u take it off. (for anyone thinking of trying with it on)

Thanks again :lmao:

[Ris]

hiya , dear ShrisSrRI,
does this cleaning procedure apply the same to Vox Cavalier ? mine is 2.0 GLS 1995. please help.
cheers:cry:

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut
reagrds chris

[beanage]

[quote=ChrisSRI]i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris[wow tht carb cleaner is gr8 siht but ouch it hurts if u get the bugger in ure eye ]

[Torquemada]

hiya , dear ShrisSrRI,
does this cleaning procedure apply the same to Vox Cavalier ? mine is 2.0 GLS 1995. please help.
cheers:cry:

They are similar engine wise to the Vec, so basically yes. ;)
Get yourself a haynes manual to check the location of components in the engine bay. They work you need to carry out will be described in the Cav Calibra section of this site. ;)

Here's a link clicky (http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=65)

[Robmk3]

Some excellent info there guys but what about the later ecotecs (say 99 on) that don't have the removable iscv on the throttle body as i've got an auto that's got all the symptoms of iscv but i can't see one to take off and clean:mmmm

[lochinvar]

Cleaned the throttle body as described by chris. Car runs better now. the new problem is it over revs when I stop or change gears. Will rev up to 2000 rpm a few times then settles down.

When driving at a constant speed it does the same, but only ever so slightly.

Does anyone know why this is happening?

Many thanks

Mike

[Boyracerboy]

i just rang vauxhall to order that fire trap/oil seperator and he didnt wanna sell me it, he said "just clean it youll be alright!" so sounds like you guys know more than vauxhall

[bigrichybyrne]

just registered today, read that... off to get the spanners now :P

This is the most frustrating thing in the world, can be quite embarassing too at times, will be glad to get it sorted!!

[Torquemada]

Cleaned the throttle body as described by chris. Car runs better now. the new problem is it over revs when I stop or change gears. Will rev up to 2000 rpm a few times then settles down.

When driving at a constant speed it does the same, but only ever so slightly.

Does anyone know why this is happening?

Many thanks

Mike

Sounds similar to the Idle Air Control Valve probs the people keep getting. I assume you checked for a sticky accelerator cable, ;) .

[lochinvar]

problem sorted. Had to replace gaskets as it was a vacuum leak.

[dave48]

Hi Ive been away from the forum for a while, but having fixed the idling problem on my 2 litre 2000W facelift estate, I thought I would let y'all know how I got on.

I cleaned out the small breather pipe & the fitting where it joins to the throttle body. It was quite difficult to do, as there are heating pipes all over the place & the connection to the throttle is hard to remove. Sure enough the small hole was blocked solid. Trying to poke a piece of wire thro while it was still in place did'nt work & it had to be removed.
Cleaning it out stopped the engine cutting out on the over-run, but it still had a rough idle. After cleaning the idle control, to no effect, I changed it for a new one.

The idle now ramps down & ticks over beautifully, but what was noticeable was that the main breather pipe stayed clean after unblocking the small ible pipe. It was obvious that the small breather takes away all the yellow gunge that builds up & prevents the idle control from getting blocked.

So the lesson learnt was that, even if there is no obvious problem, it is worth keeping the small breather clear to prolong the life of the (expensive!) idle control valve.

Hope this helps?

[Torquemada]

So the lesson learnt was that, even if there is no obvious problem, it is worth keeping the small breather clear to prolong the life of the (expensive!) idle control valve.

Hope this helps?

:Cool2: :coke:

[ChrisSRI]

Some excellent info there guys but what about the later ecotecs (say 99 on) that don't have the removable iscv on the throttle body as i've got an auto that's got all the symptoms of iscv but i can't see one to take off and clean:mmmm


these throttle bodies can be cleaned in situ with a toothbrush and carb cleaner, the idle valve is a sealed unit so not get'able to...if the idle drops low then returns up to norm its crap on the edges of butterfly flap normally...quite common on the 1600/1800 later models etc

hope helps

[ChrisSRI]

ah well, I think I've worked it out. Apparently Coolant stinks when it burns, especially if u spill a bit on your exhaust!!!

Obviously I'm no expert, but the expert I ended up calling for advice gave told me:Don't take off the throttle body unless you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. He's of the opinion that the whole job can be done without taking this off.

The Idle air controller can be carefully removed from the side of the Throttle body, and cleaned.
The breater hose at the rear of the throttle body can be taken off and cleaned.
The pipe for the rear breater can be cleaned with a toothpick if u reach around. The carby Cleaner should come with a little pipe which should allow you to clean it fully from outside.
The Butterfly can be cleaned from the top.
Taking off your Throttle Body risks ripping a gasket, putting air in your cooling system etc.

Everyones got their opinion, and I guess everyone may also be correct. Thanks to ChrisSRI for a procedure that got me where I needed to be. For the benefit of those in my particular position, I thought I would outline a simpler, possibly less risky procedure which is based on his, but could be tried first. [/B]


its far easier to remove it...i have hardy ever had to change the gasket tbh but like people say for the cost..all of a quid you are wise to get a new one if it should rip on removal (never had on rip tbh)

the procedures not risky if you are confident in what your doing, if your in any doubt..get a bit of help of a mate who is, or take it to a techy.

and correct you will lose a little bit of coolant....and it stinks and will smoke lots....dont worry about it..

the only bit you need to ensure is on nice and tight and your happy with is the two fuel pipes....

[ChrisSRI]

problem sorted. Had to replace gaskets as it was a vacuum leak.


good thing to check also while your around here working s to check all the rubber connections at the end of the plastic vac pipes as they do split and cause leaks which then cause erractic idle on overun especially

[ChrisSRI]

to everyone out there who had a go and it helped..good shot and im glad..

saves a few dollar doesnt it...

best regards chris

p.s any questions feel free to ask but it may take a while for responce as im always busy as. had to turn p.m off unfort as there were stacks of p.m's that i just couldnt respond to as i'd a been typing unitl i was old and grey.

[Michael H]

Hi Chris

Can I take up your offer for you to answer a question?

I have done the throttle body cleaning you have recommended to us all and it drives fine. But notice that I do not have a pipe that goes to the inlet that is cleaned out with the paper clip. Should there be one there If so where does it go/come from? (I do notice that there is a larger pipe that is underneath it that is fitted to the inlet manifold beneath the throttle body.)

A problem I am left with is that the tick over at start up is fine but after a drive of about 10mins the tickover is stuck at 2000 and wonder if there is a connection with the possible missing pipe. Thanks.

[Torquemada]

Sounds like the Idle Air Control Valve playing up
Trouble is I believe they're a sealed unit on the side of the throttle body on your Vec. Not sure if there's a way to get any WD40 or similar into it.

But before anything else, try checking the connector, it may be getting a little corroded or whatever. And it does no harm to check all the connectors in the engine bay really. A little squirt of grease free switch cleaner would help them if they need it. ;)

Have a look on Autovaux.co.uk if you need to buy one. They're a little cheaper than your main agent. And supply good quality parts.

Here's a link clicky (http://autovaux.co.uk/StockList.asp?carID=49&cat=21) . I think they call it an Idle Filling Regulator. But phone then for quickest service. they are very helpfull.

[rab]

cheers for that but can you tell me where I can find a diagram/picture of the engine to make it a bit clearer Thanks

[Michael H]

cheers for that but can you tell me where I can find a diagram/picture of the engine to make it a bit clearer Thanks

You could try link at RGN69 thread #44. that is quite a good picture show.

The may be others.

[Streamz]

I have a 2000 Vectra 2.0L GL. I have had the same stall problems as described here. I took the car to my Holden Dealer and they cleaned out the throttle body. After that it was a lot better, but after a while started doing the same thing again. So, I took it back and they cleaned out the throttle body again. It idled beautifully at 500rpm for about two months and is now idling roughly again, like it wants to stall. Holden say I need a new throttle body, which will cost approx NZ$600 + labour???

[Torquemada]

Holden say I need a new throttle body, which will cost approx NZ$600 + labour???

Sounds like they didn't do a proper cleaning job. I reckon they didn't clean out the small drillings in the t/b and probably didn't clean the idle air control valve properly either.

I suggest an independant diagnosis of your ECU's fault codes (or read them off yourself. Check our 'How2' section.)

[graysteil]

I'm just posting to thank Chris for the howto. I had all the usual problems and this sorted it a treat. I did have to adjust the throttle stop to bring the idle down from 1500 rpm, but now it's as smooth as a very smooth thing.

Cheers

[Jones-e]

Hi, Can anyone confirm the exact location of the small hole that needs cleaning?

TIA.

[tr1957]

Just wondered if this is related to my prob

Starts up, smoke all over the place and sounds like firing on 2 or 3 cylinders, 2 mins later the smoke clears and it idles ok, but thats all it does. It won't accelerate at all and there is a light on the speedo with a picture of a car and a spanner.

Any thoughts

[johnnymifo@btinternet.com]

Hi Guys,

New to the site, came here looking for info regarding the same problem of cutting out. I followed ChrisSRI instructions and I can honeslty say it worked. I still cannot believe such a tiny hole could cause so much stress and frustration. Thanks ChrisSRI for sharing your knowledge. It is quite an easy job to do. Took about 15-20 mins to take off the carb, about an hour to clean the carb properly and then 20mins or so to put it back.

Just follow the instructions, read the instructions 2 or 3 times before you do the job. I will try and take some pictures of what you need to undo to get the carb off it this helps. PM me if you would like some Pics, but you don't really need pictures to help you. When i first took the Carb off and looked for the hole i could not see it, so started to clean the carb with carb cleaner and cloth, after a short time i notice a very very tiny black dot, so i got a Paper clip and pushed it in, I was amazed at how tiny it was, so i sprayed some carb cleaner in, and then pushed the clip in again, more crap came off. Did this about 4or5 times to make sure it was well clean. Then proceeded to clean the whole carb proberly, looks like a brand new one now.

[Torquemada]

Hi Guys,

I followed ChrisSRI instructions and I can honeslty say it worked. I still cannot believe such a tiny hole could cause so much stress and frustration.

;)
You're not married then?
;)

[johnnymifo@btinternet.com]

;)
You're not married then?
;)


Nope, Not married. I never get frustrated with that hole, LOL

[gizza]

Hi Ive been away from the forum for a while, but having fixed the idling problem on my 2 litre 2000W facelift estate, I thought I would let y'all know how I got on.

I cleaned out the small breather pipe & the fitting where it joins to the throttle body. It was quite difficult to do, as there are heating pipes all over the place & the connection to the throttle is hard to remove. Sure enough the small hole was blocked solid. Trying to poke a piece of wire thro while it was still in place did'nt work & it had to be removed.
Cleaning it out stopped the engine cutting out on the over-run, but it still had a rough idle. After cleaning the idle control, to no effect, I changed it for a new one.

The idle now ramps down & ticks over beautifully, but what was noticeable was that the main breather pipe stayed clean after unblocking the small ible pipe. It was obvious that the small breather takes away all the yellow gunge that builds up & prevents the idle control from getting blocked.

So the lesson learnt was that, even if there is no obvious problem, it is worth keeping the small breather clear to prolong the life of the (expensive!) idle control valve.

Hope this helps?good point i have a 2ltr omega and do this by every few mounths remove the small pipe that connects to the cam box cover and squirt a good amount of carby cleaner down it, only takes 10 minutes and gives you piece of mind

[kelleher]

Hello. Wow, this thread's been going a while eh?!

Has anyone got any recent links to helpful pics for this job? I followed the previous ones but the pages were'nt working.

Thanks

[johnnymifo@btinternet.com]

I have a couple of pics which show what you have to undo/disconnect to get the carb off. PM your email address if you want them.

[kelleher]

Sorted the problem without removing the TB in the end. Many thanks anywhoo.

[shauny598]

hi, any one help, cheers. yes im a noob.cleaned throttle body out as .i read ur forum. throttle body gasket . snapped in half, will it make any diffrence. ive put it back in. but will i need to replace it.i know it sounds dumb, but i am a noob when it comes to cars.vauxhal vectra 18i 16v ,(2000 plate) cheers for ur help lads.running alot better, even though revs seem a little high, but they do go back down .

[shauny598]

cheers for ur help lad....

[tiger80]

Just taken it apart and small hole was totaly blocked runs like a dream now. and the best bit only cost10 euros for the carb cleaner not the 400 euros the garage quoted me. Listen to this man he knows whats what. THANKS

[Mischief]

Chris

Thank you so much. My Vectra has been cutting out for a good 6 months now & many garages have had no idea why as they could find the idle valve! I eventually went reluctantly to my local Vx dealership who said the throttle body needed to be replaced at a cost of over £500!!

I google'd the problem hoping for some inspiration & found your advise. I took a print of your instructions to my local garage and they sorted it out in about half an hour free of charge! They were really grateful for the advise as they'd also been struggling to resolve this problem in the past for people!

Anyway, had to register with this site for two reasons, one to say thank you & two for future reference! This is a great place for us girlies that don't want to get ripped off by some of the more unscrupulous garages!

Tee :bananasmi

[JAY1]

hi guys.

I seem to be having the same problem as you lot. When the vehicle was last taken into a local garage, the diagnostic computer pulled up the crank sensor was at fault, replaced it, fine for a while.

Now the car is cutting out and jumpy (not all the time) and the diagnostic is pulling up the maf/vaf voltage too low or not present.

Shall i just go with the diagnostic or could the icv throw up this fault code?

many thanks

jay

[stevo123]

hi all. i have recently bought this "vehicle". what a bag of s?!" its turning out to be. car stutters between 30 - 40 mph. replaced egr valve and mass air flow meter. problem went away for about 3 days. its rained everday since and i seem to be back at square one. any connection? if anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

[wagundo]

http://www.vectra-sport.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25

this is how2

[Torquemada]

Chris

Thank you so much. My Vectra has been cutting out for a good 6 months now & many garages have had no idea why as they could find the idle valve! I eventually went reluctantly to my local Vx dealership who said the throttle body needed to be replaced at a cost of over £500!!

I google'd the problem hoping for some inspiration & found your advise. I took a print of your instructions to my local garage and they sorted it out in about half an hour free of charge! They were really grateful for the advise as they'd also been struggling to resolve this problem in the past for people!

Anyway, had to register with this site for two reasons, one to say thank you & two for future reference! This is a great place for us girlies that don't want to get ripped off by some of the more unscrupulous garages!

Tee :bananasmi

A bit embarrasing for a garage to be geetting info from a car club website about a solution to a common problem. ;)

[mogser]

I have been reading these forums for quite a while now as i had the same cutting out after a restart problem with my Vectra. I had tried most of the 'fixes' for this that have been posted but to no avail.What i did notice though was that the engine idle striker plate had a tiny dent in it where the threaded screw makes contact,it looks like it has worn the metal.This has the effect of lowering the idle speed to the point where it cut out.I have given the screw one turn and repainted it to hold it in place, and have had no troubles since. Fuel consumption is fine and engine is a lot smoother. It might be worth giving this a try before the bigger dismantling 'fixes'.

[mogser]

Sorry, in the above post i'm refering to the throttle stop plate.

[kt9chutney]

ChrisSRI!

THANK YOU SO MUCH MY FRIEND!! :Cool2:

I bought my Vectra about 2 years ago, its nothing special, 2.0i S reg ('98) but its clean, smart looking and has everything I need at only £1600 back then. Anyway, about 6 months after buying the car, it began stalling intermitantly, as per the symptoms described in the thread. After sending it to the garage, he cleaned the idle control valve and increased the idle speed (!). But the problem was still there of course, I sent it back to the garage. They replaced the idle valve at a cost of £400. Low and behold, 4-6 months down the line, the problem resurfaces. After living with it for as long as my wife and I could, I got really frustrated with it and decided it was time I sorted it out. Before sending it back to a garage, I decided to do a quick google search, found this forum, and then this thread.

I know next to nothing about cars, let alone how to fix them, but I'm an engineer by trade, so I bought a haynes manual and followed your guide.

Now it feels so smooth its untrue, I tried to tempt it to stall but it refused to do so and was extremely stable at idle revs. Only time will tell now.

And yes, btw, the little hole in the TBH under the butterfly valve was completely blocked solid!

SO, Hoorah, ChrisSRI! Thank you once more!

Chutney

[kt9chutney]

I'm gutted, I have a camera handy and should have taken pics all the way through, sorry guys.

[jonhamil]

Hi guys,

First thanks to Chris for the excellent advice.

I am about to buy a Vectra with this fault and intend to go through his procedure before driving home (its 300 miles!). To complicate matters slightly the car is an LPG conversion. I have had the owner take a photo of the throttle housing and it loks like there is an LPG pipe which could cause a problem but never having done this procedure I am not sure.

Could some of you guys who have done the procedure have a look and comment if it will be possible to perform Chris' procedure despite the LPG pipe?

Many thanks,

Jonathan.

[Lordmpl]

Hi,
Very interested in this, anyone have it, the link is dead above,
Thanks.

Mark:D

[tmiffer]

this is the best in depth advice ive had on here cant believe something so simple cured all my probs sound advice

[QuakeDude]

Guys,

Thanks for the info - Just spent the last two nerve-racking hours following the instructions, but it's fixed my problem as well. Once I got the throttle body off, I pushed the clip in, and it stopped dead - I had no idea that there was so much crap packed in that little tiny hole!

For those that don't know where the hole is, here's a pic of mine before it got the royal cleaning treatment:

http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/8408/closeupdirtyqm1.th.jpg (http://img179.imageshack.us/my.php?image=closeupdirtyqm1.jpg)

Out of interest, does anyone know what part number I'm going to need to purchase the flame trap here in Australia through Holden?

[shrink]

as far as im concerned the flame trap doesnt bloody work anyway, it just creates one more thing to get filled with crap, before the ICV ends up being just as bad as it was in the first place.

[Gedrick]

Cheers buddy, did mine today, works a treat!!!!

[Jasp]

As per ChrisSRI instructions and the pictures from Johnny got mine sorted today, took me about an hour an 30mins but worth every minute.

The breather hold was completely caked in crap and the flap was covered in hard oil, cleaned it all off and she now idles perfectly spot on 900 every time no dips or drops when coming to a stop as before.

Just like to say thanks to both Chris and Johnny for sound advice.

[RREGVEC]

Hi guys, i followed you instuctions and cleaned everything out. Put the carb back on the vehicle and now the revs are dancing about going from 900 to 2000 constantly.... i checked all the pipes for splits etc and everything was fine!

I then pulled the plug off the air flow meter and the revs have now dropped,but all this has happened since i cleaned out the carb??

Anyone got any ideas??

[RREGVEC]

Sorry for killing this thread!!:cry:

[Paulio]

Can i just ask weather the pipe going onto the little hole in throtle body should have a clip on it as mine just pushes on ?

[Jasp]

Same for mine, so i put a tie wrap round it lol.

[boofyOZZ]

Hi guys, i followed you instuctions and cleaned everything out. Put the carb back on the vehicle and now the revs are dancing about going from 900 to 2000 constantly.... i checked all the pipes for splits etc and everything was fine!



I then pulled the plug off the air flow meter and the revs have now dropped,but all this has happened since i cleaned out the carb??


Anyone got any ideas??



clean all the bits on the little hose from the valve 'thingy' where the fuel line goes in - to the top/back side of the carby ...... its only about 5mm thick with slide on rubber ends (the 90' angle bend on it may be the culprit)

if this is blocked youll get the effects your describing

:)

[Stitch-T.C]

Hi all
New member here
I have read all the threads above but i feel my veccy is runnning a bit different (unless some1 can tell me)
It is using soooooooo much fuel :shake i put about £10 of petrol in and only get approx 35 miles out of it. Revs are all over the place (1000rpm to 3000rpm) but have never had it cut out on me. The revs also bounce all over the place as well.
Took it to vauxhall dealer and they cleaned out the trottle body then as nothing changed i took it back a further 2 times to make sure was done correctly.
Could some1 please help me as its driving me wild lol
thanks:cool:http://www.totalchaos.org.uk/

[ChrisSRI]

blimey this is still goin strong...

glad its helped so many...

i havent worked for vox for a while now...and am having to leave the trade on hospitals advice due to damaging the vertabrae in my lower spine....good ol cars eh....nice one...lol

keep up the good old home fixes..save yourself a bomb.

[laystar]

Hi

I would like to thank all on this thread for helping me resolve the issue I was suffering from - engine cutting out and not idling properly, especially when the weather is warmer and/or starting up after a short while when the engine is warm, i.e. park up, pop into a shop and off again.

Thought I would share the experience of doing the job because I decided to take out the throttle base. You can read about it here: http://magazine.laystar.co.uk/ID/12.

Thanks again

[Jasp]

Daft question Chris but do you know of any other way to clean the valve other then carb cleaner? perhaps something that would disolve the oil but not damage the seals lol.

Got most the muck out but can still see the caked on oil on the plunger.

[ChrisSRI]

brake cleaner?...

[Jasp]

Always good for starting diesels lol

[paulbrum]

hi guys new to the site , i've read in depth about cleaning the ICV , and small hole in the throttle body , but all the post seem to be on a 2.0lt
i have a veccy 1600 ls , is the process the same , thanks for ay help

[picklefactory]

Have read this post with great interest, all the info is brilliant. Had same problem as most and was all set to go through Chris's advised steps when I read foottappers note about shoving the WD40 up the MAF sensor connection. I thought that would be a quicker intial task, did it, and Hey Presto, good as new. Great info Chris, cheers, I wonder if there is more than one potential problem here, the WD40 certainly fixed mine. Had been cutting out for over a month, now been fine for over a month since I squirted it.
Woohoo! I love this forum.

[ChrisSRI]

be intrigued to see if it comes back...

most people point straight to the mass air as the diagnostics come up with it as its the first sensor to pickup on the fact its cut out i.e no air coming in..so throws the code, even tho the cause can be elsewhere.

chris :)

[picklefactory]

If it does, I'll let you know. Like anything else, I suppose, not always just one cause for similar symptoms. The fact that it worked for me, doesn't mean I can't still get the other issue. I had my ecu scanned at the time for an unrelated issue (****ing Bosch ABS modulater died, really happy about that, no abs, tc or speedo) and although I had no EM light, scan still picked up MAF sensor fault pending, so maybe makes sense.

[uglymonkey]

Before and after on an Omega ... all the breather stubs/ holes on this mucky bugger were surprisingly clear.


http://www.uglymonkey.net/random/dirtytb.jpg


http://www.uglymonkey.net/random/cleantb.jpg

[djf_03]

Hey nice guide Chris, my Vectra's a bit jerky - had the same problem with my Megane cutting out - will get on this 2nite. Nice.

[Normuk]

I have had a similar problem.
My W reg Vectra was stalling when slowing down , revs up and down all over the place. I had an engine fault light on. Took it to the local garage, said it was the throttle body. They cleaned it and it seemed much better. The mechanic said see how it goes, but said I might need to get the throttle body replaced at a cost of £380 :-s
Chris's solution sounds like it would fix it. I would love to try it myself, but not sure I have the confidence or ability. Would feel a bit more confident if I had a nice set of pics :) The only thing I have done on my car is replaced the electric window mechanism a couple of times.
Would this job be recommended to a beginner like me?
Would buying a Haynes manual help with it?
Thanks in advance.

Norm

[leonvectra2lauto]

Am VERY grateful to ChrisSR and Neil_M and all contributors as I have the same problem, mine's an Auto Vectra '98 2 litres Ecotech petrol engine.
Actually my car's got a few probs! And I've just spent £250 on a new cam belt, water pump and supposedly getting the idling/stalling sorted. I'm a total amateur, and nothing I post should be construed as advice as I'm little better than a chimp with a spanner. But I can usually follow instructions, which were very good on this forum.

My Vectra has very bad idling and it stalls now and again when idling. The engine going between 500 and 900 rpm back and forth in N or P and occasionally on the verge of stalling and sometimes it does particularly after a traffic jam wait and yesterday right in front of a bus coming up behind me.

I have done what Chris and Neil say, but I left the TB (throttle body) in the car as I am a lazy so and so. Using carb cleaner I cleaned the small hole at the top which has a small tube, and the larger tube and hole under the butterfly disc flap. I pushed a strong paperclip through, I think it must've been blocked a bit, I had to soak it with WD40 and then carb cleaner to get the paperclip wire through. I then checked the tube/pipe was clean too and disconnected it from the rocker cover to make sure. All clean. Now, there's only a small improvement to the idling.

Also after cleaning the TB and putting it all back, the car wouldn't start easily and then was rougher than usual and when it settled down I took it for a drive of half a mile and then observed the idling to be a little better.

I attach a photo for others who want to have a go. You can see where I have pushed the paperclip wire through where the tube/pipe goes and you can see the butterfly disc-shaped flap in the activated position which is done by activating the accelerator/throttle cable nearby. Am happy to supply more pics to anyone who wants help, just PM me.

What have I done wrong that the car is still not idling reliably? Well, I'm guessing that I have failed to:-
1. Clean another breather hole - I've only found one below the butterfly flap, I can't see the other but there must be another dirty one, and/or
2. I've not cleaned another part below the flap, and/or
3. I've not cleaned one underside of the butterfly flap because I can't get to it easily with the TB in situ, and/or
4. My IAC/idle control valve has got dirty again since last week when the garage is supposed to have cleaned it, there are two holes above and below the butterfly flap on the IAC side that probably need to be cleaned carefully, and/or
5. My ERG valve has got stuck or gone.

The car has other problems. There's a manifold stud got stuck and manifold's blowing. Needs an engineer to get it out apparently. Manifold itself not cracked. And the drive belt tensioner is going, can hear it whine a bit. And...last but not least car won't rev above 4500, it simply won't go, you hear the engine refuse to go there and if driving the car jerks back if you try to kickdown at 4500 rpm.

If anyone can shed any light on the above then please let me know. Otherwise I hope my pic here helps some who want to tackle it, I'm sure that for most it can be the solution.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Can I just add for anyone else as amateur as me that's having a go at it...

1. Be careful not to get the paperclip wire caught round the butterfly disc, and use only a paperclip wire that's the strong type in case it snaps off in the hole

2. Don't get your fingers or anything else trapped in the spring-loaded butterfly disc

3. Don't drop any tools down it!

4. Wear safety goggles in case carb cleaner or dust blows back in your eyes, and wear working gloves

5. Don't attempt it at all if in any doubt, give it to a competent garage (if there is such a thing)

[uglymonkey]

Can I just add for anyone else as amateur as me that's having a go at it...


3. Don't drop any tools down it!

4. Wear safety goggles in case carb cleaner or dust blows back in your eyes, and wear working gloves


I'd recommend you actually take the TB off - 1) no risk of dropping anything inside the throttle/ inle and 2)all the crap you're cleaning out with the carb cleaner/ etc etc etc is going to be ingested by the motor if you're not careful!

[leonvectra2lauto]

I'd recommend you actually take the TB off - 1) no risk of dropping anything inside the throttle/ inle and 2)all the crap you're cleaning out with the carb cleaner/ etc etc etc is going to be ingested by the motor if you're not careful!

Thanks for posting, UglyMonkey.

I'm also wondering if the inability to get above 4500rpm is a dirty or worn MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor.

Anyway, will have another attempt at the idling problem when my back's recovered! Get that done first I think! :smile

[leonvectra2lauto]

Anyone pls confirm: Is this one (yellow ringed in pic) of the 2 fuel inlet lines at the TB?

I've found 3 apertures, only one was blocked, the smallest as Chris said.

There's an improvement in the idling but I wouldn't say things are 100% at all. In P, N or D idle the revs now go between 700 to 900, so far a lot better than the nightmare the other day when the car sounded like it was going to stall every 10 seconds in a big jam until eventually it did just as I was getting out the jam, and right in front of a bus.

I apologise if all these are daft questions but I'm an amateur trying not to get fleeced again, having already been somewhat fleeced at a garage and down a couple of hundred and back to where I started but worse.

So, finally: does anyone here think the final ueneven idling problem now could be down to ...

- the ERG valve? If so, how do I clean it? I think I see it, 2 alleyn key nuts and it liftes off?

- or the MAF sensor, I think I can see what looks like a small piece of tissue paper caught in its (Left Side) mesh, about 5mm x 5mm, I didn't put it there and I can't get it out

- the stud missing from the exhaust manifold bank one, I apparently need an engineer to retrieve it, in the meantime manifold is blowing?

- needing a new drive tensioner belt as one garage advised?

Any help or even the briefest post to help out is of course gratefully received, thank you. :Cool2:

L

[moonman]

hi every one i have an 02 reg dualfuel vectra (B) iam only experiancing the problem of stalling when breaking or stopping, when the car is being used on the lpg when using petrol i experiance no problems would the cure be the same in this instance i would really appreciate any help or advise......

[leonvectra2lauto]

Can I also add, according to another forum poster, it may be necessary if anyone CHANGES the idle valve for a NEW one to then reset the car's ECU. I think that's done by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins. I don't know if that means you'd need to put your radio/CD player code in again or other codes. I also don't know if just taking the valve off and cleaning it also means you might need to reset the ECU. All I've been told is that resetting the ECU can restore good idling with a replaced idle valve, which I assume means a new one.

I'm still having problems: have cleaned the TB and MAF, am looking to reclean the ERG, check for a fourth time that I've not missed a blocked breather hole, look into whether it's just the cam sensor as the car also won't go above 4500 and that's apparently a sign of the cam sensor, according to another poster on another forum.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Nearly £200 lighter after a garage diagnostic check merely confirms the cam sensor failure, the TBs and breathers and IAC cleaned out again (I'm told) by them. Basically they said "it could be so many different things" and financially not worth me going through them all. Anyone have any ideas to what it can be? They said the cam sensor doesn't cause an idling problem. So, poorer but no wiser and no improvements.

[leonvectra2lauto]

I've taken the valve out myself just now, to see what the garage has or hasn't done after charging me. The pic shows what looks like dirt in the entry to the IAC and 2 tears in the gasket. I also see the throttle body bolts/screws look dirty and undisturbed in-situ currently. Any comments?

[djf_03]

My only comment would be impressive ms paint skills :D

[leonvectra2lauto]

My only comment would be impressive ms paint skills :D


:lmao:
btw have found plenty of dirt in the valve, all flushed out now,so much for the garage "stripping it down" to clean it.

[djf_03]

I would pop back to the garage and say that they didn't clean it at all and that if they don't issue a full refund, you'll be in touch with trading standards. Kicking up a fuss will work I'm sure :)

[leonvectra2lauto]

I would pop back to the garage and say that they didn't clean it at all and that if they don't issue a full refund, you'll be in touch with trading standards. Kicking up a fuss will work I'm sure :)

I've photographed everything and am looking into my legal rights, pretty sure I can get a proportion of the bill refunded or see 'em in county court (of course, even with a judgment, getting anyone to pay up after county court is another matter). This garage doesn't take credit cards so no protection under Consumer Credit Act unfortunately. But I've a receipt and as Arnie would say, I'll be back.

And now, it's time for the dancing banana: :bananasmi

:D

[leonvectra2lauto]

IAC after lots of carb cleaner (and supposedly after the garage stripped it down to clean it)

and of course the TB lower aperture was mucky on the IAC side, so no cleaning there either or just in-situ which I've already done myself

[leonvectra2lauto]

I see some improvement but not really 100% confident the idling/stalling problem has gone. I found this info below on another website, seems to suggest adjusting some screw. I have no idea where it is and advise anyone similarly unaware to not turn any screws until they know what they're turning! Here's a cut/paste from the forum site below:

"
19-03-2002, 17:24
:) ok, here goes again...
One of the most common problems affecting these engines is stalling.
most usually the owner will complain that the engine is cutting out approaching junctions, particularly when hot.
The solution is a number of modifications, all of which are geared to reducing the amount of oil contamination
affecting the engine and in particular, the idle control valve. the first is the fitting of a breather box.
this component(part no. 9201848) is designed essentially as a filter to remove the undesirable oil and carbon particles
which find their way up from the sump and into the rocker cover. from here of course they get sucked into the idle
control valve, where the fun really starts. The box costs around £10 and is simply fitted into the front breather
hose. after this you must check and possibly replace the idle control valve itself. An improved version was introduced by
vauxhall and is simply denoted py the prescence of an "x" at the end of the part number. the number is stamped on the end
of the component so you`ll need to remove it to have a look. if the x is not there then the component must be replaced,
so the owner of the car wont be pleased because new ones cost about £160! if you find that the modified one has been
fitted then your next suspicion should be that the components performance has been inhibited by contamination
within. youll need to remove it so it can be thouroughly cleaned, and its advised that you use very aggressive carb
cleaner if its going to have any effect. Next clean out the throttle body with carbourettor cleaer and a toothbrush,
frequently cleaning out with a clean cloth. take your time and do this right. The basic throttle plate setting should
be raised as well. ideally this should be done using the voltage output from the throttle position sensor as a guide,
but, if you havent got the equiptment or time to adopt this textbook approach a more immediate solution involves
opening up the base idle control and screwing by one complete turn( with engine off) this normally this brings idle
performance up usefully, but if this causes tickover to sit above 800 rpm youve overdone it. back it off half a
turn and it should be fine. another potential problem that can contribute to this fault is breather pipe blockage
there are a number of importat tubes running into the throttle body and inlet manifold and all are susceptible
to contamination. one in particular, which attaches to the back of the throttle body via a brass fitting suffers
badly. its often the fitting itself that gets clogged. blow all tubes clear with an airline having disconnected
both ends first. it also can help to remove rocker cover and remove all traces of crap, then flush engine and fit
a new filter and good oil. The final action if all this fails is to take it to a dealer and have software update
. because the frequency of updates eans that older cars can be running software thats been supursceded many times
, consulting dealer is the only way to get this this checked and rectified, and its only £35.
the other common fault is intermittant power loss caused by either a duff camshaft or crankshaft sensor."

http://migweb.co.uk/forums/vauxhall_archive/t-20741.html

[leonvectra2lauto]

by the way if anyone knows what this black screw is - I've used the photo earlier on this thread of another ecotec engine but it's very similar to mine and I've circled the screw

[leonvectra2lauto]

Obviously don't disconnect any hoses or tubes etc unless you have positively identified them as some are fuel lines and coolant etc.
Basically, I found blockages at the breathers described by the other posters underneath the butterfly in the throttle body, but also at the pipe A that joins to the large air pipe as that air pipe comes down on to the throttle body, I also found cracks in the plastic under the rubber hose. Don't forget to make sure the rubber pipes/tubes themselves are completely clear, not just where they connect to (the spigots). C and D were partially obstructed at the spigot and pipe middle. I'm waiting to find out if I've overlooked any from another forum poster. Once I know I'll test drive and then report back if it's improved it further.

See pic attached

[leonvectra2lauto]

Well, I've also been reading this very long thread (link below) about Astras and EGRs and idling/running problems. Some of the stories there make my car look good! basically bit of a 'mare and some poor people losing hundreds or thousands with garages that are not getting it right. Everything from failing to notice bad earth at ECU to reflashing (reprogramming with update) of ECUs and replaced ECUs (!!) and blanked off or cleaned or replaced EGRs or EGR gaskets etc etc. It's a long read but worth it.
Meantime cleaning the breathers as shown in the pic has not improved the idling at all. Soon I'll tackle the EGR, then the broken manifold stud and gasket. If not better then I'll go back to the throttle body and see if it's gunked up again. Finally, I'll probably buy a bus pass.

[leonvectra2lauto]

That link as mentioned in my post above
http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/archive/index.php/t-63293.html

[leonvectra2lauto]

EGR not particularly dirty, carb cleaned and WD40ed. Not helped the idling problem. The only question is whether the metal part that presses up to activate the valve should be flush with the edge of one of the EGR holes or at an angle (as it is at an angle somewhat). I may try a blanking off of it and see what happens.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Good feature about the air intake system causing lumpy idle. Plain English, suggests carefully checking the large hoses/pipes by bending them around to see if small cracks become visible and holding light bulb behind air filter (not too close or for too long, to avoid heat/fire risk!).

See http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272271.html?page=2

[leonvectra2lauto]

Checked pipes again, no cracks or significant gunk. Checked TB again, no gunk or breather blocks. Changed air filter for new one. **No improvement.** I will do a longer test drive tonight in case ECU has to adjust (doubt that'll help). Next step will be blank the EGR, then clean idle valve yet again, then cam sensor replacement, then manifold stud, then probably give up because the bills could mount to far more than the car's value given its age and fact that the auto gearbox could even be next. If ever I fix it, I'll post here. Otherwise, bye bye!

[leonvectra2lauto]

I cleaned the IAC solenoid end (no dirt there) and checked it clicked when shaken (yes), I cleaned a very thin pipe/tube running between top of EGR sensor and back towards inlet manifold, a spigot under throttle body next to an electrical sensor. It was slightly obstructed, maybe not signifcant. I made sure this tube not pushed too far on to the EGR sensor as that may cause a block in the r-bend of the connecting tube, who knows?!

IMPORTANT if you're doing trial and error: When I restarted engine: car idle went considerably up and down over 1000rpm to 1200 rpm then down, and I think during this time the car's ECU adjusts the idling as best it can, as this is far more erratic than usual after 'repairs' carried out or IAC removed/replaced. After one minute or so the idling settled and was pretty good for about 3 minutes before the problem idling returned.

So, either the idle valve does indeed need replacing (and it doesn't look old anyway) or that thin tube has something to do with it. If the idle valve needs replacing then I have to say I don't see anything with my amateur knowledge having examined the IAC when I took it out.

My mind is now considering trying throttle stop plate screw adjustment, EGR blanking, new IAC, manifold stud/gasket (definitely blowing), cam sensor (ecu shows fault on that). Some people also say coolant sensor, ecu software reflash, new ecu, new car!

I write all this in the hope it helps someone else avoid getting fleeced at clueless garages. I think mine is the mother of all puzzles, probably a more typical idling problem will be a lot easier, so don't be put off by my difficulties.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Okay, driven 15 miles now, car idle is definitely showing improvement, not perfect but improved. However, petrol consumption not good still - I've noticed a deterioration for a month or two now, maybe since the idling problem started. Will look into it, it may hold the key to a full recovery.

[leonvectra2lauto]

footwell picture

(pls just ignore)

[leonvectra2lauto]

Put in a whole new idle control valve (idle stepper valve) and drove 10 miles. No real difference. Not a surprise really as it was never showing as a fault code on the screen.

Battery & alternator voltages ok.

Cam sensor change next (or sometimes just needs a clean apparently, but I'll change it). I know for a fact the car needs a cam sensor as it won't rev past 4500 and the screen says so too. Will it be this simple to cure the idling problem? The stalling seems to be cured (after that hole was unblocked in the throttle body).

[leonvectra2lauto]

Found all this here:
http://www.akirwan.freeserve.co.uk/vectra.rtf
I've heard some of it before, may be useful to those of us still enduring this mess...

PROBLEMS WITH THE 2.0 XEV & VECTRA
Usful messages previously on this messageboard :-

CAMSHAFT SENSOR MODIFICATION
ECU error Code 92 is a cam shaft sensor failure.
Eventually they admitted there is a small mod to the sensor
itself. The mouting hole in the sensor is enlarged to allow it to
sit closer to the switch lobes on the cam.
Problem solved.

IDLE VALVE MODIFICATION
I cleaned the butterfly in the throttle body which made a little difference,
but to cure the problem completely there is quite a bit of work
to be done and it will cost approx £230 from a Vauhall dealer.
The work involves replacing the idle sensor valve with a new
updated version which has an ‘X’ by the part number (£110 +VAT),
and then enlarging a hole to 9mm somewhere around the throttle
position sensor, and finally calibrating one of the sensors to
0.?? Volts.
mikjc@cwcom.net

FLAME TRAP (IDLE PROBLEMS)
Car featured S'98 2.0 SRi
Engine idling problems
Been cutting out when idling or
after engine braking and idling high,
sometimes 2000-3000 rpm !!!!
They have now fitted a flame trap in the
breather hose from the rocker cover to
the throttle body housing.
Vauxhall sent out technical info to
dealers regarding a the Flame Trap (NOV '99)
So, if your Vectra Ecotec 2.0 engine
has been playing up when idling, get off
to your local Vauxhall dealer and ask
them to fit a flame trap and then run
the diagnostics to setup the base idle
etc.
from robert.redden@virgin.net

NO DOBOUT MOST OF YOU WITH ECOTEC CAVERLIER, CALIBRA,ASTRA OR VECTRA HAVE SUFFERED STALLING WHEN APPROACHING JUNCTIONS OR ROUNDABOUTS,MAYBE HAVING STOPPED AT A JUNCTION THE IDLE IS ERRATIC BEFORE THE ENGINE CUTS OUT OR THE IDLE WONT COME DOWN.
NOT OT WORRY VAUXHALL HAVE A FIX!
THE PROBLEM IS BAISICLY TWO FOLD FIRSTLY THE SMALL CRANK CASE BREATHER (SMALL HOSE FROM CAM COVER TO THROTTLE/INLET MANIFOLD)GETS BLOCKED AT THE BRASS FITTING IN THE MANIFOLD,THE FITTING HAS A VERY SMALL HOLE AND IS ATTATHCED SO TO DRAW CRANK CASE GASSES INTO THE MANIFOLD ON HIGH VACUUM, SUCH AS OVER RUN.
THE EFFECT IS THAT ON OVER RUN WHILST APPROACHING A JUNCTION NO GASSES CAN BE DRAWN DIRECTLY INTO THE ENGINE, THE ONLY PATH IS THROUGH THE LARGE BREATHER HOSE AND THROUGH THE IDLE VALVE AROUND THE CLOSED THROTTLE, THIS SOON FOULS THE VALVE WITH STICKY CRANK CASE DEPOSITS AND OIL CAUSING IT NOT TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY, ALSO THE GASSES CAN AFFECT THE AIR MASS METER WICH MEASURES AIR FLOW BY THE COOLING EFFECT OF THE AIR OVER ITS HEATED SURFACE, SINCE THE GASSES ARE WARM A LARGE QUANTITY OF GASSES CAN CAUSE THE AIR MASS METER TO REGISTER A TROUBLE CODE "AIR MASS MERER VOLTS LOW" ADDING TO YOUR PROBLEMS.
REMEDY: 1)CLEAN THE AIR MASS METER WITH A QUICK SQUIRT OF BRAKE SPRAY OR SIMMILAR.
2)UNBLOCK THE SMALL BREATHE FITTING "DO NOT DRILL IT OUT" ALSO MAKE SURE THE THROTTLE VALVVE PLATE IS CLEAN
3)REPLACE THE IDLE VALVE, THEY ARE ABOUT £110:00 + VAT, DONT BOTHER TO CLEAN IT THERE IS A DAMPING CHAMBER INSIDE WHICH HOLD SOME OIL AND YOU CAN NEVER GET IT ALL OUT.
4)FIT VAUXHALL PART NO 9193502 "OIL TRAP" TO THE BREATHER PIPE AT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE, YOU WILL NEED TO CUT THE BENT RUBBER HOSE BETWEEN THE CAM COVER AND THE METAL PIPE FIT THE TRAP WITH THE WHITE DOT FACING UP SECURE WITH HOSE CLIPS.
5) HAVE YOUR IDLE SPEED ADJUTED TO 864 RPM BY YOUR DEALER, THEY USE TECH 1 AND THE ADJUSTMENT IS TO THE ECU "NEVER ADJUST THE THROTTLE STOP"
I HAVE SEEN ALLSORTS,THROTTLE PLATES WITH HOLES DRILLED IN THEM OR TPS SENSORS BUTCHERD TO CORRECT THE IDLE VOLTS ARTER THE STOP HAS BEEN WOUND IN ETC ETC.
THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY TO DO IT SO DO IT PROPERLY!
from GROM
---
Ok i've just looked under my engine, i admit i'm no expert but this is what I see.
They have cut the big pipe that goes from the top of the engine, to the very big air pipe (behind the air mass meter).
After they have cut it they have have put a platic junction box (it says ford on it!) inbetween the cut pipes.
They then run a small new pipe (think it's a vacume pipe) from this to a sensor that is attached to the big pipe at the front of the engine. It's the one that has a open coupling on it.
I'm getting some camera film developed, and if you want i will take a photo and post in on here. Click here for the picture (http://www.akirwan.freeserve.co.uk/akfiles/ecoval.jpg)
Also my car was there for an MOT and they replaced some bearings in the rocker box (for free). Must be another vauxhall design problem.
Jason


I seem to have found a cure without resorting to additional plumbing - time will tell...
2.Air-idle valve - remove it from the side face of the throttle body - careful not to damage the gasket.The valve separates into 2 halves (cross-head screws)- don't loose the small rubber o-ring which seals the join. On the motor half there is a small spring loaded piston retained by a fixed brass bush - if you gently push this in and out with a stout wire whilst spraying with ether-based carb cleaner, it is possible to wash out the motor body to prevent sticking. Repeat with WD40 to lubricate. The valve half can be cleaned simularly by spraying whilst working the plunger in and out against the spring. I used grease on the gasket when refitting.
3. Small-bore emission hose from cam-cover to manifold stub - I found that both the hose itself and the manifold stub were blocked solid. I replaced the hose - use worm-drive clips in place of the spring type to make sure of a complete seal at both ends.
4.Manifold stub - the bore is about the same as coat-hanger wire and must be completely clear - but don't enlarge it. I sharpened a coat-hanger wire bent at 90 degrees to gain access - the bent bit needs to be about 30mm long to reach right through the bore. Have a good poke from outside and inside the throttle barrel to remove all traces of deposit. Careful not to drop it down the barrel. Access to refit the hose to the stub is tight - it's easier if you temporarily unbolt the throttle cable bracket and move it all to one side.
From Howard



OTHER VECTRA PROBLEMS.
There's the cambelt pully problem which doesn't need much else saying.
The handbrake cable being too thin.
The seatbelt mounings problem ?
The steering modification. If there is play in the steering there is a
modification to the steering universal coupling.
(fitting an older design I think)
Water leaks anyone ?
If you know of any more design faults with the vectra (or any other vauxhall)
which there is a fix or mod please email me and I can add them to the list and
get it on this site.
This should enable owners to get there problem fixed first time and free.
Rather than poor owners having the pay for 3 new sensors/valves and still
have the problem !
_

[leonvectra2lauto]

Am also looking into whether it can be due to a bad gasket on the rocker cover causing bad idling.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Looks like my front breather pipe is blocked with lots of engine oil somehow. Here's a pic.

[leonvectra2lauto]

I've cleaned the front breather pipe - no improvement to the idling though it was full of oil and sludge and soot.

Now taken off the camshaft / rocker cover (new gasket will be fitted with new o-rings) and have checked it. It seems to be fairly if not 95% clear. Have cleaned it up best I can as ducts are within the cover.

Have noticed a round hole near the front breather pipe spigot. Not sure what that's for, looks part of the design.

[leonvectra2lauto]

That hole was just a designed hole.

Right, new cheapo gasket & o-rings on, cam cover back on, front breather pipe rechecked for fresh blockages, tb small hole checked for fresh blockages. No blockages found now that I know of. Car started first time as usual but idling problem remains. Gasket not leaking so far after 5 miles test (no sealant compound used).

What next? Cam sensor then I give up. Yes I really mean it. spent quite enough.

Anyone want any advice, if I can help I'll give some, so email me.

Bottom line: stalling was probably the tb small breather hole blocked a month or so ago. idle valve was also dirty, cleaned it in 2 parts off car.
air filter very dirty, replaced. fuel filter replaced. oil, filter, plugs replaced. maf cleaned. hoses checked for vacuum leaks - none found. front breather blocked - cleared. minor block other breather pipes - cleared. battery voltage ok. diagnostics only shows cam sensor as fault, it's perhaps part of the problem. will post again after new cam sensor.
Idling is better now but not that good. Will cam sensor improve it - tune in for the next thrilling episode in a week or two.

[whatthevecisup]

Hi All, The Post That Was Put Here By 'chrissri' Is Spot On, I Done Mine Today, And As For People Wanting Pics Of How To Do It, Beleive Me Its Not Hard, All I Done Was Printed Out His List Of How To Do It, Off To The Garage, And All In All Took Me Acouple Of Hours, But I Did Fit A New Rocker Gasket At The Same Time, So Cheers Chrissri For The Info, And Yes My Little Breather Hole Was Blocked Cheers...

[whatthevecisup]

Hi All, The Post That Was Put Here By 'chrissri' Is Spot On, I Done Mine Today, And As For People Wanting Pics Of How To Do It, Beleive Me Its Not Hard, All I Done Was Printed Out His List Of How To Do It, Off To The Garage, And All In All Took Me Acouple Of Hours, But I Did Fit A New Rocker Gasket At The Same Time, So Cheers Chrissri For The Info, And Yes My Little Breather Hole Was Blocked Cheers...FOR ALL YOUR HELP MATE...

[dryle]

Hi I am new to the forum and am experiencing the problem of at low revs the car is quite sluggish then shoots forward without hitting the accelerator, I am wondering if these are the symptoms of the dirt in the idle control valve and if so can somebody post a pic, it is a 1600 zafira 02 model.

I have posted up in the zafira section to no avail.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Well, just to update, new cam sensor, engine management light out, problem remains.

What's next? Any ideas pls reply.

Otherwise I'll be...

wondering why idle control voltage fluctuates between 9 and 13 volts at idle and looking at patching a neg jump lead across to see if it helps

looking at the earths anyway

wondering if the manifold stud missing and bad manifold gasket could be causing all this

check coil pack

checking the spark plugs myself

[leonvectra2lauto]

checked the HT leads, some doubt, so replaced them, no improvement

[picklefactory]

Just a quick update to my post ages ago in this thread, mine is still going strong with the WD40 squirt, about 3 months on now and not a single instance of cutting out since. I'm sure this wouldn't solve everyones issues, but it certainly solved mine.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Had new exhaust manifold gasket - no improvement to the idling.
New plugs ditto
New HT leads ditto
New idle valve ditto

£800 down drain.

[Mr Claypole]

My Zafira was stalling when coming to a stop. I cured it by taking off the slack from the throttle cable at the TB end. I made sure the butterfly valve in the TB closed fully and there was little further movement in the throttle position switch.

Don't know if it would work for anyone else, but it did for me and I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere else.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Thanks Mr Claypole, I've learnt something there, appreciated. I've got bad idling after warm up (say 5 mins from cold) and it may be the tb plate does not close fully, I think there's a screw under there that might adjust the stop of the plate. I have fiddled with it previously, didn't make any difference, maybe I should fiddle with it some more now that other work has been done to the car it may respond.

[leonvectra2lauto]

Just to add something new I found out:-

Symptoms of a bad or mis-adjusted TPS include:

Inability to correctly set base ignition timing
i.e. you jumper the timing check connector (http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector) and the idle and timing don't change
Varying idle speed
Note that a low coolant level can affect this as well, if air pockets reach the temperature sender, the ECU can get false readings of engine temperature and alternate between cold and warm idle speeds.
Hesitation while accelerating
Poor fuel economy

[leonvectra2lauto]

PROBLEM 95% RESOLVED TODAY

What was it?

Well, still got 5% of the problem left - slightly ropey idling, might be a blast with induction cleaner (thanks WM) or carb cleaner to sort that out though, maybe.

The main problem - stumbling and shuddering at idle and slowing down and standing, coupled with greater and greater over the weeks hesitation - car reluctant to move forward before it finally gives in and revs and goes - this seems to have been a bad faulty DIS Ignition Module / Coil Pack .

My coil pack looked newish, so didn't suspect it, but some HT lead tests suggested it could be. V96V kept recommending a new coil pack. I should have listened. But as it looked so new I didn't. Doh! I also suspected it might be but again wondered why car started so easily of DIS bad. Probably because DIS only bad once it gets warm.

However, a considerable part of the problem was also I reckon blocked throttle body breathers, blocked breather vent pipes, small vacuum leak somewhere (usual tests failed to find it), blocked duct in rocker cover, blocked front breather hose and metal pipe, dirty idle control valve.

DIS is all I have to say!

[djf_03]

Thanks for the update mate - was considering doing the coil pack myself. No cutting out but slowing down is very juddery unless I drop the clutch, is v annoying.

Where was your vacuum leak?

[leonvectra2lauto]

Thanks for the update mate - was considering doing the coil pack myself. No cutting out but slowing down is very juddery unless I drop the clutch, is v annoying.

Where was your vacuum leak?

Small vac leak somewhere, not sure.

That juddering could be the coil pack or DIS as it's also known. See if you can swap it temporarily with a friend's if same model. If not and you don#t want to buy part speculatively then get the DIS tested first somewhere reliable (easier said than done I know). ebay has some economically priced DIS packs, QX Components £35 for example. I got mine from Vauxhall parts counter, £49 made by Siemens.

Ask V96V what he thinks about that judder as you slow, I had that too, but can't be sure it's always the coil pack unfortunately.

[V96V]

in fact just re read through it all, kinda felt replying wasnt goin to help but i'll go with it...hey it can only get worse eh.

second post was a bit crappy..but was due to gettin the same thing asked again and again....was driving me nuts after a while

apologies if came over wrong...just frustration

regards chris

You just carnt help some people,some have spanners and the knowlage
some dont...this is where some people fail...knowing somethings isnt always enough......BTW there are pictures floating around on the forums now,regarding the throttle body cleaning....

[Zeg]

Thanks ChrisSRI for all that information. Hope it will fix my stalling problems.
http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=149582

[Zeg]

Thanks ChrisSRI for all that information. Hope it will fix my stalling problems.
http://www.cavweb-forums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=149582

[joef]

VECTRA 2.2 (Y-REG) with electric throttle (no cable)

Hi there. Reading all the threads for cutting out and came across this one. Mine cuts out while accelerating then cuts back in again and jumps like a kangaroo but problem seems to clear for a week then come back. The garage said that the fault was in the throttle body and it needed to be changed - do you think that cleaning as per instructions would sove this problem - as all of the other people seem to have it cutting out as they take foot off the throttle. I have been checking the pipes for holes,etc but dont really know what they are - or even what they are called - haynes manual useless. There is a pipe going into the back ( as you look at the engine from the front on the LHS but the actual pipe goes into a black connectory thing which pulls out about a inch and can be moved in and out freely - seems dodgy to me. Can I get the thing out - how?

Any links to the parts of the throttle body like a map would be great to help me read the threads and know which bits are being discussed.

Any advice gratefully received - new throttle body £280 ?? anyone do better?

[ChrisSRI]

howdi all...

another thought for some of you is some people mess about with the base idle screw.(Norm got yellow paint over on side) this sends it on a wayard upset idel mission from god.

to reset up...norm is disconnect idle air...adjust screw till she juuuuuuust fails to stall, refit idle air wiring and she should take up the idle nicely etc.

lost of stuff on veccys etc...they get worse with age unfort...its norm blocked breathers, air leaks...esp those lovely little black connections at end of plastic pipes...they perish (top tip..buy a metre of diesel leak off pipe, perfect repalcement when u cut it up in to inch long bits to make new connections)

as regards the auto..if all the above fails i can only advise a vox setup if she still wants to cut out as tech two can program base idle, running idle etc etc..you'll notice it changes idle from p to d etc etc.

best regards chris

[Gouryella]

Wow, what can I say, you guys have saved me a lot of messing about!

My car was looked at by someone who was a Vauxhall 'Expert', true enough he had the machines with all the bells and whistles to read the ecu. But he couldn't for the life of him work out why the engine was idling erractically and was cutting out.

After reading this I stripped back the black ducting to the manifold butterfly valve and attacked it with a toothbrush and some cleaner, and hey presto!

Thanks again!

[ronaldbiggs]

Hi Guys/Gals (if there are any gals)

First let me say what an excellent forum this is, Just got a x reg (2000) 1.8 vectra and have developed very poor idle at whenever I am at a junction. The idle will drop to about 450-500 then just hunt back up and return to 450-500. From what I have read it could be the ICV blocked.

Any help on what requires disconnecting and pointers to where the ICV is in the engine bay. Any help much appreciated


Regards

Daz

[ronaldbiggs]

Or am I to assume its the throttle body that just needs de-gunging.

[gsipants]

hi guys, im new here and wondering if anyone could help me..... i drive a y reg vectra 1.8 sxi, the em light has came on and from time to time the car runs as if misfiring. i removed coil and checked plugs, one was shot but i replaced all four, the car ran fine again for about 10 miles then light came back on and problem started again. sometimes i can drive for miles without the light coming on or the car running strange. the diagnostics machine said the problem was the lambda sensor, but garage said problem could be with the coil pack. Any ideas mate?

[opp179m5202ac]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris

Thanks Chris, Well....Yep...your a genius. Have had this prob since investing in the Vectra about 3 years ago (97 model). Love the car but have paid heaps to try and rectify the cutting out problem! Almost to the point of tears. Fortunately, I have a little bit of mechanical capability (not a lot any more but enough): After reading your instructions and printing off the photos which were a great help thanks, all i did was:
release the two breather pipes....
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
Clean all edges of butterfly up so there is no crap around it esp at its edges...
Then...got a paperclip, opened up....cleaned out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side on the right (looking at the engine) yep..very small (and under the throttle body lip inside - so tackled it from the outside or inlet side) and i think it was very blocked and so not breathing much at all. Then sprayed carb cleaner thru it both sides (easy if you use the car cleaner little plastic tube (I was careful to hold on to the tube in case you drop it inside the throttle body).

I did this almost 2 months ago and have not had the problem since ( was cutting out every 2/3 weeks after a carbi clean b4).

All I can say is thanks for the great advice and I recommend it to any one!

Cheers and Happy New Year
Jonny

[bigdunk1985]

cheers chris

my p reg vectra has just starting cutting out while slowing down to stop

will do this is in the next couple of days

[mikevec]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris
just registered to thank you for this good advice. Did all this work on sun on my SRi after suffering stalling for the last 3 months. Now runs like a dream. Only cost £3.99 for carb cleaner. Has saved me a packet on garage bills.
THANKS AGAIN

[dad2610]

Hi , i to had stalling problems and the other day my car jerked which caused my engine warning light to come on, anyway i decided to take the plunge and have a go at it myself,the instructions can seem a bit daunting but once you look at it under the hood its not so hard to follow,
my vectra 2.0 16v runs sweet as hell now and its a lot smoother when accelerating,,cheers for the guide ,ya a top bloke chris.

[siddy]

Hi Chris
Dune all the sugestions on here and lots more changed plugs replased valve cover gasket, Oil and filter change, The problem now is every now and then the power drops off and comes back with out cutting out compleatly. Not ever day. It did it again this morning, Last time was about 3 days ago
REGARDS SID

[Jomolo]

I have the same problems

As some one who is a total noob, I dont even know what an idle control valve is, I would like to do it myself, but when I look at the engine Aghhh!

Pictures would be great, just to give me a start, I know nothing about cars, but dont mind getting my hands dirty

[vectradurham234]

think this is the answer to my problems too.....so does the egr valve need cleaning also?

[Billy007]

Seems similar problems on mine also.
Ive got a 1.8 dual fuel 2001 and its jumpy as hell.
Kangeroos in petrol.
Gas kicks in and is ok for a little while then it too goes all kangeroo.
Idles at about 800 but every few seconds drops to about 5-600...
Is any of the advice given here connected to the brake servo in any way.
I get rock hard brake pedal every so often too?!!?
Im going to copy the pipe clean out info from here and give it a whirl so thanks for that.

All ive read so far is the idle valve etc etc but when I went to take mine off it was not there!!!

I think mine does not have an easily detatchable one like all the info pointed to.

Cheers ,

Dean

[mwj182182]

Thanks Chris! I was experiencing the problem of the car stalling on idle or pulling up to a junction. I printer your guide and gave it to my local garage to do the work (they keep the guide!) The car now feels like it should, a 2.0 16v!
Idle is still (doesn't jump about) gear change is smooth and it now seems quiet?

Cheers once again Chris!

[will_SRi]

my sri idles like shit and misfires when booted will this solve it?

sounds like it running on 3 cylinders so might do plugs aswell.
thanks

[brownjk]

could this work for a mk4 astra

[samr1@hotmail.co.uk]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris


Cheers for that mate, i need to try this on mine. Is it straight forward to do? or am i best letting my mechanic get on with it? (im a complete novice and its stressing me out!)

Sam

[smartybones]

hi peeps...

having a few issues with my vectra, and as a shot to nothing i decided to follow the guide.... car running a lot smoother, but still has the missfire on 3....

fault reader is on its way.... should have it tomorrow so should be able i iron out the rest of the faults.....

for those who wanted some photos, here you go...

first pic is the tiny hole you need to clean out.....

http://www.jackiedee.co.uk/pix/vectra1.jpg

this one is of the nice clean air intake.....

http://www.jackiedee.co.uk/pix/vectra2.jpg

its by no means a hard job to do.... just remembering where all the pipes go..... but this is car maintainance, not rocket science

[samr1@hotmail.co.uk]

did this on mine this morning, so far so good! cheers mate!

[james1973]

i have the same problem regards cutting out an revs pleasing themselves, i have stripped everything down an cleaned but cant find this small hole by butterfly can someone direct me please

[1835harri]

Look at #210..
That is the hole directly under the buttlerfly.

I took mine off to clean, but cannot figure out what pipes go on where.

[w15sst]

ANOTHER THANKS CHRIS....
worked on the 2.0dti signum problem I was having! Top bloke I owe u a beer!
DW

[MONKEYmark]

hi all
new to forum.bought a r reg vectra 1.8 16 valve ecotec for £100 was a bit of a shed for work and its been very neglected.was ok for 1st couple of months.then started having problem like lack of power and missing so i changed plugs and air filter still same.
it all seem to start happening after i had used red x in petrol.battery died so got new battery then tried to drive around in car.was violently jerking and killing power and cutting out at junctions.felt like it was running on 1/2 power. you could be driving down road normal then car was jerking very bad.thought it might have been fuel filter so changed that and seemed ok for a day,then started with problems.
decided to get it put on diagnostic machine and he traced it to MAF sensor.bought one for £10 from scrappy off a 1.8 vecta 16 valve with cam belt snapped.fitted it at scrap yard and it cured the problems.
then i started to have rev counter going from 1000 to 2000 to 1000 to 2000.then been reading up that it was the idle control valve needed cleaning or new part.that search brought me here.
the car has been run into ground.cam covers leaking oil round sides all down block.and the breather box at top of engine that goes into pipe that goes back into block was completley blocked with MUD like oil.never seen a car as bad as this.cleaned and un blocked pipe and box and cleaned with white spirits.
my next job is to try do idle control valve.is it an easy enough job.got some new oil and filter and some engine flush to do but need to take cam covers off to clean inside bet they full of ancient oil.

at one point was going to scrap it and buy another japanese car.i had a 14 year old primera and it was fantastic car no problem at all.

dont want to give up on vectra just yet and good to learn new things

take care let u know how i get on

[steve43]

well im going to it a go as i have the problem sounds like good advise to me anything to avoid the dreaded big old garage bill and cannot find out whats wrong routine .

[MONKEYmark]

hi all
got round to stripping idle control valve and i cleaned it with wd40 put it all back together wrong way round but it started up ok.i stripped it all down again and re fitted it correctly and car idles smooth.just great that that tha car drives like normal.
have just used some engine flush and changed the oil had to buy a set of 1/2" drive torx sockets as the oil pan is a t45 socket.also found out that a ford escort sump nut fits the vectra.i just put the old vecta sump plug back on.was going to take oil pan off and chek what it was like.but new gasket was £15 so left it as it was as its only an old car.try get a year out of it then will get rid.

great when u do jobs on car and it sorts problems out.it is very smooth running and can hardly hear it.idles about 800 rpm

worth getting your hands dirty and did not cost too much to sort problems and easy jobs

[VFRBoy]

Hey Chris,

Thanks heaps for sharing this gem with us the ignorant masses.

EVERYONE - use good carby cleaner, it works a treat and heaps better than WD. Also you really have to check and clean all the breather hoses it's amazing how much gunk collects in them. Ignore it at your peril.

Did mine today, what an improvement!! Running like new.

Cheers again Chris, I'll buy you a beer if you're ever in Aus.

VFR

[clubfoot]

hi guys, ive had the problem of stalling when approaching junctions for a few weeks now and i came accross this site.

ive read this thread from the start and it seems cleaning the throttle body, especially the small breather hole cures the problem.

as a complete novice i have a few questions:

1: what kind of spanner/socket do i need to remove the 4 star shaped nuts that hold the tb in place?

2. how do i disconnect the throttle cable? it has some knind of ball connector at the end.

3. if i disconnect any of the elecrical plugs in and around the tb will it reset any thing in the ecu?

4. does the butterfly flap come off or does it stay inside the tb?

thanks guys, some great info on here, just hope i can sort this very annoying and dangerous fault out once and for all, its especially worrying as i have 2 young kids in the back i dont wont to get rear ended!!

thanks in advance

[AndyGC]

Havent needed to do mine as yet, but this will prove to be a Gem post as previously described.

Thankyou very much indeed Chris, your posts are greatly appreciated.

Excellent post and a fantastic resource for many.

[jrewing]

Thanks for great information. I experience the described problem. And I will try the solution!:Cool2::Cool2::Cool2:

[jrewing]

Hi!

I think I know where the part is that needs cleaning, but I would like confirmation. I have the Haynes manual for the Vectra, but it doesn't cover my engine (2.5 V6), so I bought the Omega book, which is supposed to cover it, but it is not exactly the same.

I have taken a couple of pictures, and can anyone tell me if it is the right part? As I understand, it is the throttle housing, I need to clean and where I will find the little hole which needs declogging.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oIlXV7u4khM/SUUdlKaiqNI/AAAAAAAACKo/xzkfJI3rPqA/New%20York%20029.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_oIlXV7u4khM/SUUdouc6hfI/AAAAAAAACK4/LCEkOuldr8Q/New%20York%20031.JPG

[molloy]

Hi all
I've patiently been through the 'cutting out' threads and learnt a lot. Thanks to all the advice people share. I've had my Vectra for a couple of weeks and it did the notorious cutting out - when going along or idling - anywhere, whenever, no particular pattern - leave it for a couple of minutes and it would start up fine only to repeat another day.

I will take throttle body apart, clean and check. I've done the paperclip test on the diagnostic plug and gotten codes: 0100; 0340 and 0130 - I think - it is a tricky maneouvre knowing exactly which engine you've got and how to read the code formats.

I think the codes mean faults at MAF sensor and maybe cam and/or crank sensor (from failing to start hopefully?) - I'll start with the throttle - clean it with carb, then MAF sensor (is it best to clean it with carb or electrical contact cleaner - and does anyone know how to test it with a multi-meter? which pins / resistance voltage? don't have circuit dia yet.
One thing worries me about this car - the immobiliser has been overidden at some point and alarm removed - key fob disabled, but when I changed battery I got a single flash from the light - EML doesn't flash on ignition luckily but could an immobiliser bodge be to blame? Expensive ECU consequences?
Exhaust is also blowing - how sensitive is the system to exhaust faults - can it disable the car?

Thanks

[jrewing]

Anyone know where to find a new gasket for the throttle housing?

[molloy]

Hi
Vectra '99 f/lift 1.8
I was wondering if my cutting out problem could be different - when it cuts out it won't start again for a few minutes - sometimes longer. Now won't start at all -I've cleaned the throttle body but also need a new battery so can't find out yet if problem is resolved -I suspect not, although throttle was gummed up so glad to have done that. However, before investing in new parts (battery £50 for starters) I'd like to know if I'm in for an overhaul more than the car's worth. - High mileage cheap car - looks as though it's been run hard with low oil? Fault codes 0100; 0300; 0340 (from memory).
Cheers

[leeproc]

I was having problems with my vectra sri cutting out so i took it to the garage and they wanted alot of money just to do a check so i came on here today and read chris's message and it worked perfect, it only cost me 3 pound for the carb spray, so i saved alot of money. thank you.

I am also having trouble with my brakes tho, when i brake there pulsating and making a noise, this happens till i reach around 40mph then the abs light comes on and the pulsating stops. its passed its mot and i have been told changing the brakes dont fix the problem, anyone know what to do?

[Torquemada]

Pulsating? :mmmm
You'll have to be a bit more descriptive please. Like you get vibration when you brake? Or the braking is uneven?
If you have some kind of noise/vibration without using the brakes, it could be wheel bearings.
But make a new post about the problem, because you won't get many answers in the 'Cutting out' thread. ;)

[bolt_nixon]

VAUXHALL VECTRA THROTTLE BODY PROBLEMS

if you own a vauxhall vectra A OR B you will know exactly what the throttle body problems are well most of you anyway there is a way to fix the problems if you have any engine code apart from (Z16XE) OR (Z16XEL)

its a simple job of removing the air idle valve from the throttle body cleaning it down with paraffin as well as the throttle body DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER!!!
it costs far to much and does the same job as a tooth brush and a tub of paraffin
BNQ i think it was around 3 quid for 5 litres wasent much
clean everything down and flush breather hoses take bat terminals off to for roundabout 30 mins to reset ecu clean everything down as best you can then make sure all paraffin is gone before rebuilding the throttle body

hook bat terminals back up turn key to first point and leave for a few mins and just push acc pedal up and down turn the key back off then start car should idle smooth let it run for a couple of mins then push acc pedal bring rev counter near to red and let it sit for a few mins on high tick not full throttle but close to it (do not do with a cold start) once the engine has been running on full throttle for a few mins let the pedal back up and see if the engine is running smooth or has a rough tick if it has a rough tick you need a new idle valve you may be able to buy one from a motor factors on the net or vauxhall them selves (dont let them touch your car and dont let them sell you a throttle body you dont need) all you want is the idle speed valve

if you are unlucky enough like me to own a vauxhall vectra 1.8 or 1.6 Z16XE or Z18XE then it will mean a new throttle body i have managed to strip the sealed unit apart and refurb the throttle body unit but its not an easy job to do the cover is tin plated and can be removed by heating the edges and using a small wedge between the throttle body and tin plate cover if you do try it the idle valve can be removed and cleaned but its not easy job to do and if your going to do it give your self plenty of time

[molloy]

Hi
Thanks for the advice bolt_nixon. I have the Vec 1.8 with built-in idle valve and have done a partial throttle strip down and clean. My Vec was cutting out every journey and now won't start at all - I've replaced the cam sensor; re-earthed the MAF sensor; 02 sensor is still showing codes (blowing exhaust) not sure if these are all secondary problems. Timing belt looks OK. Oil is very low - no warning light or code but can that disable starting? - Obviously I'll top it up soon.
Anything else that can cause intermittent cutting out and starting problems? - car seems to idle and run fine when it actually goes.
Cheers
Mark

[ok67]

I have had problems with jerky idle and stopping engine for years and I finally discovered the advices here. Removed the throttle body yesterday and gave it a descent clean using carb cleaner, a toot brush and a thin wire to open up the small pipe below the butterfly. Now the idle is stable and somewhat higher than before. The only problem I noticed after the clean is that the engine speed is "hanging" a little bit high for a short time when changing gears. Maybe I should have removed the fuse for the ECU for 1/2 an hour to reset the ECU as well ?

By the way, the idle walve on my car can not be removed from the throtle body, it seems to be an integral part of it. My engine is X18XE1, from '99.

[glc123]

just done this on my vectra x18xe and what a difference.tried not using new gaskets but broke one so bought new(only pence from vx). very easy to do and a good guide thanks

[ATOJAR]

Does anybody have any tutorial with pictures now how to remove & clean both the Idle Control Valve & Throttle Body? i would really appreciate it. :D

Cheers.

[CrystalSummers]

I'd like to thank Chris for posting this information on this website. I have followed his instructions and believe I may have solved some problems which have plagued my car throughout my ownership. I have owned my Holden Vectra for almost 2 years and have experienced the following symptoms:


Coughing when flooring accelerator pedal
Stalling/cutting out when driving at speed
Problems with idleing
Difficulty starting after stalling

These problems have got progressively worse and I have recently spent $800AU to replace the cam sensor (?) at my mechanics & the Holden Computer's advice! My car broke down yesterday to the degree that I was not willing to drive it again until taken to the shop for repairs.

I did a search on the Net and located this site.

Thanks to Chris' advice, I decided to attempt the repair myself, and lo and behold, found a completely clugged up breather hole. After cleaning this out and putting it back together, my Vectra now drives better than it ever has. It started immediately, idles beautifully, and the coughing problem which existed when I bought the car is GONE!!!!!!

CHRIS, if you still ever visit this forum, I'd like to thank-you for your post. It has solved a very frustrating problem which could have become very expensive. Thanks for taking the time out of your busy life to share your knowledge and experience with the rest of us. I'm sure I am not the only one here who feels this way.

Thanks again - you have made my day! (possibly even my week!).

Crystal :Cool2:

[Neils1som]

i read time and time again that people go, ye, need to clean the idle air valve out....well to a degree yes...

but u are not sorting the problem.....it will just do the same

what happens on the vectra is the breather junction where the pipe goes on to the os (as stood at front of car) of throttle body clogs up , so forcing the idle air valve to take the brunt of all the crap and makin that lovely top hose go soggy and dead...

so, if u want to solve the fault....and p.s i havent changed one idle air valve on a vectra in ages, and i havent seen one back..and they all drove lovely after the following work done..you guys seem to be spending money like mad..and two months down the line..its faulty again...

so here goes

remove air inlet pipe....
remove tps switch wiring plug, and idle air plug
mark the top coolant pipr at back of throttle body, so u know where to put back..easy done to forget...remove them both
remove throttle cable, the little clip has to come off first
theres two breather pipes....remove both
undo both fuel pipes at their unions...17mm
now undo the four ten mm nuts and remove the throttle body
remove the idle air valve now, look after gasket and its ok to reuse inlet to throttle body gasket again..
get toothbrush, and carb cleaner...operate flap, and clean all edges of butterfly up so there is not one bit of crap around it esp at its edges...
now the fault thats makin her cut out...get a paperclip, open up....clena out the blocked very small breather piepway thats underneath the buttefly to one side..very small...always blocked and so not breathing.
spray carb cleaner throo it too..
now clean out your idle air with carb cleaner well
rebuild as stripped....gaskets will be fine to resue unless damged...

the car will drive like a completely different one, no jerkeness, and smooth as hell..and the idle air will go on workin fine for ages...and idle beaut

u can also do the flame trap mod which is good..the black box on front crank breather and replace the top pipe from cam cover to air ind pipe if mushy/split

this how is to save u lot a bomb.....so i hope it helps u out.

reagrds chris


Just done this to my Astra g 1.6 16v and yes the breather pipe from the engine was totally blocked, gave it a good clean with a needle which was so caked up in carbon.

idle is pefect now drives like a new car again

[spik3yb0i]

Just done this to my Astra g 1.6 16v and yes the breather pipe from the engine was totally blocked, gave it a good clean with a needle which was so caked up in carbon.

idle is pefect now drives like a new car again

Did your car used to cut out when slowing down?

[Neils1som]

Did your car used to cut out when slowing down?

Yeah engine idle fluctuated and sometime stalled

Clean throttle body out with carb cleaner(you need to take t.b. off the car) and there is a a very small hole inside the throttle body it get gunked up use a pin and blow down the breather pipe from the rocker box cover it should be clear.

[spik3yb0i]

Yeah engine idle fluctuated and sometime stalled

Clean throttle body out with carb cleaner(you need to take t.b. off the car) and there is a a very small hole inside the throttle body it get gunked up use a pin and blow down the breather pipe from the rocker box cover it should be clear.

Did you replace the gasket or just re use the same one.

[Neils1som]

Did you replace the gasket or just re use the same one.

I did use the same gasket as it was not damaged

You need to examine it, and give the gasket a little (Gentle) clean with a cloth it should be ok to use again

[spik3yb0i]

I did use the same gasket as it was not damaged

You need to examine it, and give the gasket a little (Gentle) clean with a cloth it should be ok to use again

If possible can you tell me what tools I need to remove the throttle body? Im going to attempt it this weekend. I have the same car as you.

[Neils1som]

If possible can you tell me what tools I need to remove the throttle body? Im going to attempt it this weekend. I have the same car as you.


Yeah you need a female torx socket (i dont no the size sorry) remove 3 electrical plugs i.e idle valve, thottle plug, loom plug then the throttle cable breather pipes then the torx bolts x 4 it not that diffcult job imo

Good luck with it and let me no how u get on with it

cheers

Neil

[spik3yb0i]

Yeah you need a female torx socket (i dont no the size sorry) remove 3 electrical plugs i.e idle valve, thottle plug, loom plug then the throttle cable breather pipes then the torx bolts x 4 it not that diffcult job imo

Good luck with it and let me no how u get on with it

cheers

Neil

Just opened the throttle body and check it was cleaned cos I asked a garage to do it a few days ago but it still cut out. So all I done was replace the gasket. Test drive seemed fine so far but I will report back in a weeks time as I will test it at high speed tonight.

Thanks for the help Neil.

[spik3yb0i]

Ok so the throttle body, ICV, Breather holes all cleaned. New gasket put on. Still it cuts out. It usually judders before it cuts out but it mainly cuts out only at high speed. Anybody have any ideas then please help. Thanks.

[Ian]

Ok so the throttle body, ICV, Breather holes all cleaned. New gasket put on. Still it cuts out. It usually judders before it cuts out but it mainly cuts out only at high speed. Anybody have any ideas then please help. Thanks.

Your problem sounds like a heat affected sensor failure (when something gets warm, it fails).

Really need more information, so it's probably worth starting a thread in the discussion area and getting it all in the same place. :)

Ian.

[jrewing]

I had a go at my V6, but getting the throttlebody off semmed like such a hassle. I took a rag and cleaned what I could get to. Then I removed the hose and cleaned the hole with a coat hanger :-)

It's too soon to tell if it has helped, but It hasn' cut out for a few weeks.

Thanks a gain Dave!

[jrewing]

I had a go at my V6, but getting the throttlebody off semmed like such a hassle. I took a rag and cleaned what I could get to. Then I removed the hose and cleaned the hole with a coat hanger :-)

It's too soon to tell if it has helped, but It hasn' cut out for a few weeks.

Thanks a gain Dave!
Whoops, sorry Chris!

[backbox]

hi all, having the same problems with my vectra 1.6ls, cutting out when ever i come to a junction, droping down the gears, r just sitting at a stop, been trying to solve it fer months, had a go at what chris said , cleaned it with the crab n bingo it done the trick, 2 hours later its starting to idle again, priced a new 1= £260 quid, and thats a favour, but just glad to solve the problem

[hawkins1006]

hi guys think i got same prob i got a 2.0l vectra b sri 1998 engine cuts out when warm not cold idle goes up and down for a bit then i stop at lights and it cuts out i clean the air valve out and the throttle body as said by you guys was ok for a bit but last nite i was out and a bout mangement light came on it was running like shit all nite checked the engine codes and it cumming up as 0340 cam sensor just one code please help me its doing my head in lol!!!!!

[traceyanne lowe35]

have been reading posts for 2days on the cleaning of the air intake valve problem is i dont no wot it looks like anybodyhelp me

[xantiaman]

my sri didnt have any of the associated problems that this can cause but bieng bored one afternoon i thought id clean the throttle bodie anyway,and im glad i did.the butterfly was covered in a yellow gum like substance but the little breather hole was only partially blocked.i cleaned inside and out with a toothbrush and carb cleaner and assembled with the old gasket.the car is transformed,the pick up in acceleration is much much better now and it accelerates very smoothly indeed.thanks for the info on doing this.

[molloy]

I cleaned up my throttle body and pipes (X18XE1 has slightly diff spec - cannot remove idle valve) but prob persisted. Read codes and changed cam sensor - no start now - let it sit for a few days whilst i scratched my head - had a couple of people look at it perpexed - autoelectrician sat in it and it started first time - golden touch? It has worked fine ever since (immob prob excepting but that's another story). I'm glad I cleaned throttle and pipes as they were blocked but I suspect it was mostly the cam sensor intermittently faulty. Easily changed for £30 but it wouldn't restart until the fault code was cleared - not sure how and when it decided to clear itself but all good now,
Thanks to the forum for saving ££££ again.