Blowing exhaust manifold?

[ChrisSRI]

very very common this on the 18xe and 20xev, on veccy or cav,tell tale is loud clicking on cold startup that gets quieter the more warm it gets..unless really bad.
normally its the left side (stood at front of car) of the manifold that is blowing due to excess heat build up and it has warped and thus caused the studs on that end to break.
if not this they also love to crack across the top underneath the heat shield.
so firstly u need to check how bad and whats involved.
take the heatshield off by undoing the four torx 10 bolts.
a bit of manipulaton and she will come out, u may have to remove the engine hoist bracket or the coolant pipe bolts above if your struggling.
now look for black sooty deposits..a crack will be obvious....if it is merely cracked a cheap effective repair is to simply weld it in situ, i have known these to last for ages.
now the most common, examine the left side of manifold...is it black at the gasket joint...if it is, your warped and blowing. if bad it will have broken the bottom lowest corner stud, or worse the above one also...if you are going to take on the task yourself get a 13mm socket on these two studs and carefully try to undo....if go tight, wind back in, and out, lubing as u go. tenner says they feel loose and u think they'll come out, in fact they are normally already sheared in the head and merely fall out when u try to undo.
at least now u know and can drive it short term. and get the bits needed
to repair this some garages remove the cylinder head to drill and retap, some drill out in situ.
it is poss to do in situ, and do well if your competent.
to do...and remove the manilfold...
remove heatshield, remove, pipework above,
remove the egr pipe off of manifold,
undo breather pipe from cam cover and undo two 13mm bolts and remove full pipe to crankcase. bung hole up with tissue!!
undo two bolts under egr valve gubbins and move the obstructing part out of way.
undo the four bolts for front pipe from underneath.
whilst under here undo the 15mm lower power steerin pump bolt.
up top get 15mm spanner, undo and remove multi v belt, undo upeer two 15mm power steering pump bolts.
the dipstick also wants to be removed, simply undo bolt to pump and twist and pull. the pump can now be movered and lowered out of way
undo and remove two bolts and remove thermostat housing. place out of way.
undo all remaining maiflod nuts, studs and remove manifold.
bung all holes in head etc with tissue.

now u can start to repair. get a small drill centre punch the broken studs, now pilot drill out straight and in line with head etc...
BE WARNED U GET THIS WRONG U DRILL IN TO HEAD AND WILL HIT WATER JACKET!
so long as u take your time and just keep checking, your ok. when u go throo stud, there is normally gap at rear of it, so drill will go free suddenly, stop now!!!
build up with drill bit sizes till your not far off of thread...
when happy, get a suitably sized "easy out" (these are fab) and twist in and undo till it pulls remains out.
alternatively, get well close to thread of stud, and very carefully tap out so u get to old thread.
once you have done this u can feel well smug and have five, lol

now remove all remaining studs with stud remover, or two 13mm nuts clamped together on studs and undo
fit all new studs...and nuts...i strongly advise a new manifold but they arent cheap...so its upto, u a straight edge will tell u how warped it is.
clean up all surfaces..and rebuild back as u stripped.

just make sure no foreign bits in manifold to head port holes and breathe rhole, also clean this out, use new gaskets throo out, no bloody paste! new studs! and u Will need a new thermostat seal on rebuild, and of course anti freeze etc.

hope helpful, ChrisSRI:D

[MaDeddie]

My VEctra 99/T engine 1.8 X18XE1 :bust:

Chris meet another very happy Chris.

Your guide is great although as predicted my far left stud was on a little pressure and sure enough it sheared. The manifold was warped and had a hairline crack exactly where you suggested. A quick weld took care of that for the while.

I couldn't get hold of an 'easyout' Sowent for the temp solution of putting it back together with blue gastket paste and it's worked as a temp fix.

This must a common problem. :turd I suspect a defect present from when it was cast! :turd

It's let me with a big bill and a stud I'm going to have to drill out in the worst place possible.

Would have been a thousand times worst without this guide though.

Thanks a million.

[mark1978]

Is this expensive to get done at a garage as I think mine has just gone in the last couple of days, it sounds like it is coming from the left hand side of the engine as you look at it

[JoeyB]

I have just started hearing a ticking on cold aswell....an happened to stumble across this. I've done 550 miles since Saturday a 3hr 45min journey to Cornwall...so i think the heat may have done summit....Will check tomorrow

[Clarkey75]

Excellent guide, I started to hear a strange noise the other day and from following your guide I have found that yes I have a blowing manifold right where you stated. However it appears that some work has been done on the manifold as the left lower stud (as you look at engine) has been recently replaced with a new stud and bolt as they are still shiny (I have only owned the car for about 3 months). I suspect that I'll need to get a manifold fitted :shake . Does anyone have any ideas on cost to get it done at a garage??

Better still does anyone now of any decent garages in the Milton Keynes area?

Clarkey75

[Cheater2k]

im givin up and just replacing the ecotech with me redtop, lol, ive got this prob to on me vec, and also on my old calibra eco to :(

[ozz]

Is this expensive to get done at a garage as I think mine has just gone in the last couple of days, it sounds like it is coming from the left hand side of the engine as you look at it

I had this problem with a 2.2 Frontera. I was told by a few sources its difficult to weld as you need a certain type of weld done and they don't always last to well.

IIRC VX wanted around £100 for the new manifold and 2 hours @£50/hour to fit it. But...if the bolts sheared then they said it could take all day so I was looking at a bill of minimum £200 but possibly £300/500!

Anyway, bollox to that, bought a manifold and did it myself. Was very lucky, no bolts sheared so took less than an hour. I have very little mechanical experience but did the job fine. Sold it 2 days later and the new owner was very happy.

[ozz]

One other thing I remembered, if you are going to weld it then drill holes at the top and bottom of the cracks, this stops it spreading further. I guess most people know that tho..!

[pammibaby]

My manifoild was cracked and I had it welded by a specialist cast iron welder. However, there is still the same ticking noise, I guess I just really need a new one, Vauxhall have quoted me £500 for a new one as its actually a manifold cat combined. I am hoping to source one a bit cheaper than or if I can, just a replacement manifol which does away with the cat altogether. Only problem is, I can't find anywhere that makes or supplies these. I have a 1.8 Corsa SRi on an 03 plate, could anyone please help?

Thanks

[kingkevbo]

anybody any ideas where i can get just the exhaust manifold gasket without the rest of the head gaskets? Ive had no luck on ebay.

Cheers

[Old Red]

I was able to get a single exhaust gasket from a local motor factor! Try autovaux.co.uk they supplied me with just rocker cover gaskets!
good luck

anybody any ideas where i can get just the exhaust manifold gasket without the rest of the head gaskets? Ive had no luck on ebay.

Cheers

[Marks DTM Calib]

A few pointers.

If your manifold is warped but, not cracked, you must get the mating face flat.

You can do this by sanding it on a flat surface using coarse wet and dry or emery or speak to your local machine shop and get it skimmed.

Always use new studs and nuts (not expensive from a dealer) and always use the metal exhaust manifold gaskets from your dealer (again not expensive), the pattern parts tend to be composite and pretty crap!

Always use new studs.

[Springz-VECTRA]

Welding can be done on the maniffold by firstly drill the two holes at either end of the crack as suggested earlier, then get an angle grinder with a THIN cutting disc, grind a ROOT between (only lightly) the two holes...
then.... you should then take the maniffold to any welding/sheet metal worker factory workshop and have them TIG weld the crack, this will need to be done several runs to fill in the crack and the ROOT you ground into it, don't forget TIG welding is very easy to mess up with corrosion contamination so a good wire brushing will bring the part up, wire brush each run between welds.... tig welding is the best for this as the heat can be better concentrated into the area, don't use MIG as this is sloppy and will just sit on top of the crack and will end up going again at the edge of the weld!!! i hope this is of help to some of you....

[Lorian]

My 1999 X20XEV has the broken bottom left stud.

I'm pretty average when it comes to mechanical work. Thankfully the manifold looks to have no cracks, so I think I need to remove it, make sure it's flat, extract the broken stud, remove the others and refit with new studs and new gasket.

Chris's guide is pretty good, but I have some (daft) questions:

Where is the EGR pipe I need to remove?
Do I really need to take the thermostat housing off - it looks like it won't quite get in the way?
The downpipe bolts look very rusted - whats the strategy for removal if they are stuck or shear?
When I take the V belt off the sterring pump, whats the procedure for refitting it?
What size "easy out" do I need?

Thanks.

L.

[cav TD gls]

yours might not have the egr pipe fitted , mine is a 99 & it hasn`t got it .
i never took the thermostat housing off when i did mine.

[Jeffers_S13]

Hello All,

In case anyone is feeling adventurous I thought Id add what I did.

Just changed a blowing gasket on my Vectra, had to do it on both previous Cavs but on those the stud hadnt sheard but on the Vectra it had :(

It was the most awkward bottom left one so access was very poor. I didnt want to pull the head off so I reluctantly bought a right angled drill attachment from B&Q (£30) its a lot more compact than most on ebay and it looks more substantial. Not the easiest of things to use as you cant apply much pressure to the back of it as its in such a confined space so drilling progress is slow. I also had to shorten a couple of drill bits, the chuck was actually gripping the now 'modified' bits on the flutes :eh

After MUCH swearing I was able to drill the remains of the stud more or less out I had to pick the remaining bits of stud out which took a good hour. It chewed the hole a little bit but not too bad, I ran a tap down the thread to clean it up, new stud is securely fitted.

New studs were fitted where needed and the upgraded metal gasket is now on, took me about 6 hrs to do it though ! arrrghhh ! I also replaced the thermostat housing gasket, worth doing whilst you have reasonable access as the old ones are always brittle.

[SYMON]

Having done this, here are further tips.

Get these from your local Vauxhall parts dept.

1. Buy 10 new studs inc nuts and a new exhaust manifold gasket.
3. Buy 4 new bolts and a new gasket for the manifold to downpipe.
4. Buy a new thermostat housing gasket.
5. 5 litres of coolant.

Also buy some decent metal drill bits in 2mm and 3mm as these are the sizes you will need the most if you have a few studs to drill out. You will require larger sizes but once the hole is drilled it gets easier.

An easy out kit is also helpful.

Your worst emeny is drill bits and easy outs snapping in the hole you have drilled, so be careful.

I also used one of these and it made all the difference.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ryobi-One-Right-Angle-Drill/dp/B000C74X5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=diy&qid=1239730603&sr=1-1

[iftikhaar]

hi There mate i wnated to know if it was possible 4 you to do me a guide on how 2 do each thing in order as i know u have 2 do the timing to do a head gasket ...... my exhasut manifold gasket has gone 2 .






very very common this on the 18xe and 20xev, on veccy or cav,tell tale is loud clicking on cold startup that gets quieter the more warm it gets..unless really bad.
normally its the left side (stood at front of car) of the manifold that is blowing due to excess heat build up and it has warped and thus caused the studs on that end to break.
if not this they also love to crack across the top underneath the heat shield.
so firstly u need to check how bad and whats involved.
take the heatshield off by undoing the four torx 10 bolts.
a bit of manipulaton and she will come out, u may have to remove the engine hoist bracket or the coolant pipe bolts above if your struggling.
now look for black sooty deposits..a crack will be obvious....if it is merely cracked a cheap effective repair is to simply weld it in situ, i have known these to last for ages.
now the most common, examine the left side of manifold...is it black at the gasket joint...if it is, your warped and blowing. if bad it will have broken the bottom lowest corner stud, or worse the above one also...if you are going to take on the task yourself get a 13mm socket on these two studs and carefully try to undo....if go tight, wind back in, and out, lubing as u go. tenner says they feel loose and u think they'll come out, in fact they are normally already sheared in the head and merely fall out when u try to undo.
at least now u know and can drive it short term. and get the bits needed
to repair this some garages remove the cylinder head to drill and retap, some drill out in situ.
it is poss to do in situ, and do well if your competent.
to do...and remove the manilfold...
remove heatshield, remove, pipework above,
remove the egr pipe off of manifold,
undo breather pipe from cam cover and undo two 13mm bolts and remove full pipe to crankcase. bung hole up with tissue!!
undo two bolts under egr valve gubbins and move the obstructing part out of way.
undo the four bolts for front pipe from underneath.
whilst under here undo the 15mm lower power steerin pump bolt.
up top get 15mm spanner, undo and remove multi v belt, undo upeer two 15mm power steering pump bolts.
the dipstick also wants to be removed, simply undo bolt to pump and twist and pull. the pump can now be movered and lowered out of way
undo and remove two bolts and remove thermostat housing. place out of way.
undo all remaining maiflod nuts, studs and remove manifold.
bung all holes in head etc with tissue.

now u can start to repair. get a small drill centre punch the broken studs, now pilot drill out straight and in line with head etc...
BE WARNED U GET THIS WRONG U DRILL IN TO HEAD AND WILL HIT WATER JACKET!
so long as u take your time and just keep checking, your ok. when u go throo stud, there is normally gap at rear of it, so drill will go free suddenly, stop now!!!
build up with drill bit sizes till your not far off of thread...
when happy, get a suitably sized "easy out" (these are fab) and twist in and undo till it pulls remains out.
alternatively, get well close to thread of stud, and very carefully tap out so u get to old thread.
once you have done this u can feel well smug and have five, lol

now remove all remaining studs with stud remover, or two 13mm nuts clamped together on studs and undo
fit all new studs...and nuts...i strongly advise a new manifold but they arent cheap...so its upto, u a straight edge will tell u how warped it is.
clean up all surfaces..and rebuild back as u stripped.

just make sure no foreign bits in manifold to head port holes and breathe rhole, also clean this out, use new gaskets throo out, no bloody paste! new studs! and u Will need a new thermostat seal on rebuild, and of course anti freeze etc.

hope helpful, ChrisSRI:D

[iftikhaar]

hi There mate i wnated to know if it was possible 4 you to do me a guide on how 2 do each thing in order as i know u have 2 do the timing to do a head gasket ...... my exhasut manifold gasket has gone 2 .



yh Cheers mate thnks alot 4 that that will hep but i need 2 do the head gasket as well and have been told to take offf the throttle body and take fuel injectors out.... as i will be replacing the exhasut gasket and intake gasket at the same time .. i also need 2 know the torque rating 4 the cylinder head bolts .

[orangestone]

will the exhaust in engine bay damage oxygen sensor, it will clog up the air filter with oil and soot, but its only a very short moment while heating up that the clapping noise from manifold is heard and not much exhaust visible,and if I start driving right away the exhaust is pushed away from air intake i guess.I drive the car just once a week, might not make damage oxi sens for months years and a used one is cheap. can I put a pipe in the air intake to move intake to, for example , i have seen, a pipe made of drinking bottle peeking through the grill, taking air from outside the engine bay. but then theres a risk of water entering air inlet.and sand or dust.more than should, so it would need a bigger pipe or box inside to slow air down to make water and dust fall down, that would block the radiator maybe too much. will the govt car examination demand a fix if exh leak is small like mine seems, exhaust might enter passenger air inlet. and hehe i was thinking of a way to catch the leaking exhaust with aluminium bag and piping it out, even with a vacuum fan on pipe. another easy fix idea was to not use the studs that need replacing but rather a wire around engine to make pressure on manifold.yes some or all of this wont work well.

[orangestone]

exhaust leak seems to stop mostly very soon when manifold heats up

[orangestone]

the clapping sound stops very soon when manifold heats up and no or little exhaust leak at idle after that i think

[harding9025]

i have a very small "clapping" sound from my manifold. will this devlop into something bigger very soon or will it take time to get worse?